"Low Battery Warning- Start car now" with Traxide DBS fitted

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by drivesafe

Hi Richard, and you can start your motor with a cranking battery voltage as low as 11.6v, so you are fine there.

As to idling to charge a battery, you are far better off going for a half hour drive than idling for two hours, and the drive is better for your motor than idling it for long periods.

And it's more fun going for a drive!!!!!!!

---

Tim,
yep I went for a drive. I then parked the car for an hour while going for a walk and checked the battery via the Tekonsha when i got back and it read 12.6.

I have not put it on the charger tonight as want to check again in the morning via voltmeter. Unfortunately I can't drive much at the moment so it will be idle again.

I will charge it once a week I think.

Richard

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by drivesafe

The point about the eye terminals is that you need to spend the time to install them before you use the charger and as such, dramatically lower the chances of causing a spark and igniting and hydrogen that may have built up around the battery.

Whereas, with clips, people are more likely to connect straight to the battery's terminals without realising the danger it imposes.

---

So.....connecting a CTEK with the supplied alligator clips directly to the + and - of a D4 primary battery is discouraged, not because it poses a risk to the BMS, but solely because of the potential of igniting built up gases??

Is this right?? Just want to be clear before I connect my new CTEK.....

**goes to read through LR book**

+++ Book says to remove the battery from the vehicle

Positive terminal and earth point - not negative terminal.

And the reason for removal - batteries can and have caught fire / melted down under charge causing damage.

Out of the vehicle is always the safest!

Hi Catch22 and I think you will find the suggestion to remove the battery from the vehicle goes along the same line of removing the potential of the battery exploding in the engine bay.

To make things easy, connect the battery charge positive lead to the cranking battery's positive ( + ) terminal, and the battery charger's negative lead to one of the two M6 studs, located just in front of the cranking battery compartment.

Job done.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by catch-22

So.....connecting a CTEK with the supplied alligator clips directly to the + and - of a D4 primary battery is discouraged, not because it poses a risk to the BMS, but solely because of the potential of igniting built up gases??

Is this right?? Just want to be clear before I connect my new CTEK.....

**goes to read through LR book**

---

I use one of these. It connects to the white plug (European caravan plug)

Tow electrics charger adapter - CTEK/Accumate/Optimate etc - DISCO3.CO.UK - Shop

Apologies in advance for off topic post but is there a correct way to attach compressor cables to a D4. I have a Big Red compressor that I used to attach to the positive and negative terminals of my old Pajero and then start the engine while I pumped up the tyres. What is the correct way to do this on a D4 (MY13) ? I'm asking after reading about not using the negative terminal when jump starting/charging because of potentially zapping the battery management unit etc.

Martin

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by letherm

Apologies in advance for off topic post but is there a correct way to attach compressor cables to a D4. I have a Big Red compressor that I used to attach to the positive and negative terminals of my old Pajero and then start the engine while I pumped up the tyres. What is the correct way to do this on a D4 (MY13) ? I'm asking after reading about not using the negative terminal when jump starting/charging because of potentially zapping the battery management unit etc.

Martin

---

Apart from the whole exploding battery thing, any current draw from the battery needs to go through the BMS (for the MY13). If you always connect the negative to an earth point you will be ok. The easiest one is the one just in front of the battery box.

Just don't **** with the negative terminal. Negative to an earth point always and you can't go wrong.

Better still still get the Traxide kit with an Anderson plug at the rear and fit an Anderson plug to your compressor. So much easier than lifting the bonnet every time you need to use your compressor.

Cheers,
Jon

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jon3950

Better still still get the Traxide kit with an Anderson plug at the rear and fit an Anderson plug to your compressor. So much easier than lifting the bonnet every time you need to use your compressor.

Cheers,
Jon

---

*2

You can also recharge the batteries through the Anderson at the rear.:D

Cheers
Mark

How do you "turn off the screen before shutting down the car"?
(I have a MY11 TDV6.)