Engine oil leak from around diesel oil filter

Yeah I knew there was a Haynes manual, just reluctant to buy it unless it doesn't have enough detail or that particular component of the car is different in some way. I'd be much obliged if you could tell me if there is at least some instruction in that manual regarding removal of oil cooler. If there is I'll fork out and get one. Thanks again for your help. It's appreciated.

Stumbled across this site which looks helpful, maybe helpful to someone else as well.

Oil Cooler & Filter Discovery 3 | Land Rover and Range Rover parts

Pardon my ignorance but what's under the oil cooler seal, is that part of the block? Also looks like the oil cooler has two pipes in it. What would these be for. IS it water cooled perhaps. Appear that the whole thing is held in by one M6 bolt surely that can't be right.

Sorry for all these posts but found this as well when I did I search on the oil cooler assembly part no. 1354253

Looks like there are two coolers in this area, an oil cooler underneath which attaches to the block and a fuel cooler that is mounted on the oil cooler assembly. This means there must be another seal between the oil cooler and the block. So 3 possible spots for a leak. The filter o-ring, the oil cooler seal on top of the oil cooler and I'd have to assume an oil cooler seal under the oil cooler i.e. between the oil cooler and block.

1354253 | COOLER - FUEL | Land Rover | | Britcar (UK) Ltd

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Originally Posted by Terri

Stumbled across this site which looks helpful, maybe helpful to someone else as well.

Oil Cooler & Filter Discovery 3 | Land Rover and Range Rover parts

Pardon my ignorance but what's under the oil cooler seal, is that part of the block? Also looks like the oil cooler has two pipes in it. What would these be for. IS it water cooled perhaps. Appear that the whole thing is held in by one M6 bolt surely that can't be right.

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Picture just shows one of each part, there would be 8 bolts based on the housing detail.

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Originally Posted by Terri

Yeah I knew there was a Haynes manual, just reluctant to buy it unless it doesn't have enough detail or that particular component of the car is different in some way. I'd be much obliged if you could tell me if there is at least some instruction in that manual regarding removal of oil cooler. If there is I'll fork out and get one. Thanks again for your help. It's appreciated.

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There is a step x step procedure in the Haynes manual for the cooler removal and refitting. . The cooler is bolted to the block with 8 bolts .
Not saying that's where the leak is only a sagestion where it might be .
Also just behind the oil filter housing is the oil separator which can leak if the o rings are shot , oil leaks are difficult to find just a matter of elimination and a lot of patience .

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Originally Posted by Terri

Yeah I knew there was a Haynes manual, just reluctant to buy it unless it doesn't have enough detail or that particular component of the car is different in some way. I'd be much obliged if you could tell me if there is at least some instruction in that manual regarding removal of oil cooler. If there is I'll fork out and get one. Thanks again for your help. It's appreciated.

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Hi Terri

A member run site has CDROM manuals that may be of interest.

Link is https://www.davesitshop.com/emporium...ls-cd/dvd.html

Martin

Thanks for the replies, going to focus on cleaning it up and watching carefully with engine running from the top down i.e around the base of the filter.

The o-ring on the filter housing would be very easy to not install correctly, I have on a couple occasions had to take the o-ring back off the housing because it's twisted and not seated in the right groove on the housing.

If this has been happening only since your last filter change then it's more than likely a issue with the o-ring or not been installed correctly.

Let the car sit over night and before you start it in the morning unscrew the housing and check the o-ring is correctly installed.most of the oil should drain into the sump whilst sitting over night.

Cheers Ean

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Originally Posted by Ean Austral

The o-ring on the filter housing would be very easy to not install correctly, I have on a couple occasions had to take the o-ring back off the housing because it's twisted and not seated in the right groove on the housing.

If this has been happening only since your last filter change then it's more than likely a issue with the o-ring or not been installed correctly.

Let the car sit over night and before you start it in the morning unscrew the housing and check the o-ring is correctly installed.most of the oil should drain into the sump whilst sitting over night.

Cheers Ean

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Hi Ean, I'm really wishing that was the case, but I have checked it and double checked it many times now. I've changed the oring twice as well. It could still be that I am doing it wrong but I doubt it. There is no place the oring can go but where it is located. Today I cleaned the base of the filter and outside of the filter base and climbed up over the engine while it was being reved at about 3000 RPM, I looked very carefully with an LED light all round the base of the filter and there was nothing at all coming out so I am back to square one. It's really frustrating. I've got to just keep cleaning it and watching and learning how it all fits together.

Assuming ring is in correct position, then might the leak be coming from a stress crack in the body of the filter cover?
Cover appears to be some sort of bakelite/plastic and might have a crack that only appears under tension when tightened into place (perhaps spreading when tightened down).
Easy check is clean cover thoroughly, make sure it is dry, invert and fill with kerosene (not sure where you might find some these days), and leave overnight. If there is a crack in it, the kero will seep through it.