Thread: looking to buy high KM D4

My D3 has travelled 290,000+ K's and on original transmission (not engine, that's another story), I have it purged every 50,000 K's and serviced, a couple of months ago we had a trensmission fault appearing when towing our camper through hilly country at the same spot, the fault readout indicated a solenoid not operating correctly so I had an early purge and had the 7 solenoids replaced this week. I won't know the result until I take the camper out again in a couple of weeks.
The mechanic mentioned the "white Metal" bushes and said I had had a remarkable run but the box would need a rebuild in the future, around $6k. They replace the bushes which are the problem with bronze bushes and he would expect not to have a problem with it from that point as that in his experience is the only weak point

Originally Posted by RichardK

My D3 has travelled 290,000+ K's and on original transmission (not engine, that's another story), I have it purged every 50,000 K's and serviced, a couple of months ago we had a trensmission fault appearing when towing our camper through hilly country at the same spot, the fault readout indicated a solenoid not operating correctly so I had an early purge and had the 7 solenoids replaced this week. I won't know the result until I take the camper out again in a couple of weeks.
The mechanic mentioned the "white Metal" bushes and said I had had a remarkable run but the box would need a rebuild in the future, around $6k. They replace the bushes which are the problem with bronze bushes and he would expect not to have a problem with it from that point as that in his experience is the only weak point

How much for the bushes all up?

And since you have teased us with the engine problem, please elaborate.

Thanks, Wasa

Originally Posted by Wasa57

How much for the bushes all up?a

The ZF branch in Sydney (there are others in other major cities) were charging a standard price of $3950+GST to totally refurbish any European version (Fords are cheaper) of the 6HP gbox with new torque converter, new mechatronic, new clutch plates and various other components including some new shafts and filled with oil a couple of months ago. The cost of removing and replacing the gbox, dismantling, cleaning, re-assembling and supplying new seals and oil would make just replacing the stator bushes a very expensive exercise.

Thanks for all the feedback and advice guys.

I took the car to MR Automative yesterday for a full check - they went over it with a fine tooth comb and were very happy with it (it's in VERY VERY good condition all over and has been very well kept), only concern they had for me was the spare tyre was not so good. They did mention that the transmission hadn't had a service yet. They did test the oil and said it was good - but i'm not sure if that still means a possible replacement down the line?

I checked 'my' VIN against those numbers Graeme and it's is not included in that range, im guessing that's positive? Build date was AUG 11.

As a quick side note. Previous owner had a farm and drove from Brisbane to Roma (900km round trip) alot, hence the high k's.

I still haven't committed 100% on the car just yet as there seems to be alot of doom and gloom surrounding these cars in general. I have had my eye on one for quite a while for mainly daily driving and a bit of off-roading when I can (fraser once a year would be good for me).

I would go for Toyota but I cant really justify the money on a older cruiser with high KM and the lack of comfort you get with it, driving this disco was pretty amazing.
Although in saying all of this, i'm not sure I have the money to back me up as you guys are suggesting I should have

My last Aussie built car cost more to run than my 2011 130,000km D4 has. It's all relative.

If you have had it checked out and reckon its a good vehicle go for it. Don't die wondering!!!!!!

Originally Posted by aophoto

Thanks for all the feedback and advice guys.

Although in saying all of this, i'm not sure I have the money to back me up as you guys are suggesting I should have

I say go for it, I picked up a 2010 D4 3.0 for 50k with 83K on it. I should have taken more time to have it checked out but just didnt have the time and had to get in the car which is for work duties. The guy I bought it from also got a dodgy RWC from a mate of his. So since I have it I have done the following ( which I allowed for as well)
Trans metal sump and oil change - $960
front lower control arms - $1200
brakes all round - $1100
Oil level check system fault (faulty sensor in the sump which requires axles etc to be stripped to replace) $1200
plus all the extras, bar, winch, GOE wheels, rack, drawers, dual batts etc.
All this was accounted for and with the lower purchase price I was still ahead if I had of purchased from a dealer. Just shop smart, Famous Four in Uk will be your friend, and find a good mechanic, not LR who will just empty your wallet. Had I got a new car for $50K it would already be worth 20% less now with 30K Kms, I could sell the D4 now for near 50 still. I too couldnt justify the Toyota price tag for 2nd hand.

Originally Posted by Graeme

The ZF branch in Sydney (there are others in other major cities) were charging a standard price of $3950+GST to totally refurbish any European version (Fords are cheaper) of the 6HP gbox with new torque converter, new mechatronic, new clutch plates and various other components including some new shafts and filled with oil a couple of months ago. The cost of removing and replacing the gbox, dismantling, cleaning, re-assembling and supplying new seals and oil would make just replacing the stator bushes a very expensive exercise.

I live in Townsville and the closest ZF service is in Cairns but I think they do marine only. I am moving to Toowoomba at the end of the year ad if this offer still stands I would be keen to take advantage of it. My D3 V8 has done 190000kms and I am not sure if the trans has been serviced. I was going to take some photos underneath and ask this forum to see if it is the original pan. I might risk using it until the end of the year and getting the full service. Your thoughts.

The plastic pan has ribs along it whereas the steel pan has a flat bottom and rounded corners due to being pressed from sheet metal and has turned-up edges for strength. The screws for the plastic pan have large diameter heads (around 15mm?) to clamp against a metal sleeve in the pan holes whereas the steel pan screws are about 8mm.

By 190K kms its probably not worth disturbing unless its had a very easy life and isn't in the range of vehicles with the white-metal bushes, which being a 2005 model should not.