Trailer light also confirms acknowledgement that the computer recognises a trailer is connected and will change shift mapping and TR programs to suit.
It does not change the Trailer Stability
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The trailer dash indicator is not a reliable indication that the vehicle knows that a trailer is attached as mine does not work with my box trailer even though its fitted with incandescent globes yet the reversing sensors get disabled.
One day I'll remember to select low range and rock crawl to see whether off-road height is automatically selected or not.
Just food for thought. Obviously it all depends on what you want to do and where you want to go. I have tried to keep things simple.
My mods:
- Hankooks AT tyres
- UHF - GME3100TX PNP (no install required and can be removed when not used)
- Roof top box
- side awning
- custom build fake floor to take a solar panel and hotplate for cooking over the fire
- 40l Engel on the fake floor with 120AH battery box
- ARK DCDC charger to charge the 120 AH whilst driving
Last year I had a D3 with GG AT tyres, but otherwise the same setup. We spend three months on the road (with our Camper Trailer).
Worked a treat..
Forgot to mention
- re the trailer LED lights. I bit the bullet and got LR to install the required module
- I also use a P3 electric brake controller
:)Hmm ,,,I've done some towing with my 2.5 tonne off road van ... and have not installed anything to improve the lack of power the LED van lights deliver. But it changes gears just fine and the fuel economy is terrific.
My 2014 oct SD D4 beeps its reverse warning alarm because my van has LED lights. So I switch the volume on the radio dial down. I could put an old fashioned light bulb onto the trailer lights somewhere - but I don't see the need. Rather than spend a lot on a devise that IMO achieves little, I'd rather add a bunch of LED extra lights onto the van ... enough for the D4 to know its there. Maybe a bunch of purple under trailer lights for traversing Chapel St in Melbourne on a Friday night with the trailer in tow?
I doubt gearbox changes modes due to the trailer lights not being known by the car to be connected when towing either.
I have read though that when off road its good to use the manual settings or at least he sport mode on the gearbox, as it stops the gearbox changing gears and locking and unlocking a lot, which doesn't benefit longevity I've read.
An extra fuel tank is a good thing, and pays for itself in the bush. But for me, I don't like all that weight sitting in the spare wheel area, which puts all the weight on the rear axle. I prefer the idea of the 90lt Outback Accessories Long Range tank, which maybe can be located behind the front seats. Thats much further forward and takes a heck of a load off the rear axle. When trailering, one has to add the ball weight, and it all adds up.
For me, putting a 32kg tyre wheel tyre on a roof rack, means the car has less rear axle weight, and its more standard too IMO.
Traxide will get you to fit it at his place too - he's in Southern Qld, a drive I think from Brisbane. Timothy knows people who can fit it for you too.
Hi guys,
How much would you expect to pay to have the redarc brake controlled installed? Unless I misheard, I believe the LR guy said $1400!!! :o:o
I was thinking of getting it done at the dealer as I have a warranty issue that needs fixing - the drivers lumber support is broken. Feels like the cables have come loose. Not sure if they can fix it without replacing the chair?? Happen with less than 1000km on the clock.
Cheers!
Wayne
Seems a lot to install a brake controller, but never having done it myself, not sure about how much work is actually involved. Guess when you consider the wiring that has to be run, from the front of the car to the back, plus connecting it all in properly, it isn't an inconceivable amount.
My car is in at the dealers at the moment, having the lumbar support replaced. It felt like it was clicking every time I accelerated, and was annoying. They are replacing the innards, not the whole seat.