Looking to buy D4

**Konradical** · 23rd March 2016, 11:32 PM

LRD414:

That looks pretty messy for the person who hit you!!

I will clarify what I meant by didnt tension up; I did unclip the loom so I could move the plug out of the way, but it did require a fair stretch still. Even with the extra space, i could not get my 1/2" torque wrench and socket in there. What I did though is work out approximately how much force i needed to push down on a double ended ring spanner to get close to that torque. So thats almost 13kg on a meter from the centre of the bolt, and worked out with my spanner is about 35kg, or sitting on it..

I will however be keeping a proper eye on it over the course of the first trip, tools are already in the back and when we get home I will convert the two 7 pin plugs into one 12 pin. I like simple!

I am not sure about single use torques on those bolts. They just look like regular 8.8 grade M16's. I wouldnt imagine that they would stretch at only 127Nm. On my Rangie I removed the towbar to clean up under the back and replaced all the bolts with 10.9 grade equivalents. 10.9's would be excessive but would be better suited for multiple torque applications. What I would change every time is the Nyloc nuts.. Cant trust those suckers.

The other thing I am going to do is purchase another cover plate, trim it to suit the hitch, just to neaten it up a bit.

That thread you referred to LRD414 was a good read. One of the things I noticed before tightening up was that it pointed to the left side. I just had my partner hold it straight with a piece of pipe in the receiver while I did the bolts up. But still good to know its normal.

What I didnt mention last night was that fitting the hitch has made the top ten list of frustrating things I have done as a mechanic. Number one being equaliser bushes!

I cant wait for this weekend now!

**Konradical** · 30th March 2016, 11:31 PM

First trip down and heck am I impressed. Even though I hadnt received the LED module in time, I just quickly made up a adapter plug to see me through the weekend.

I think I could tell that the car wasnt in "tow mode" or what ever it is, as the car was a bit slow to react when it was required to downshift for hills and sometimes felt a tad bouncy in the rear over bumps. But other than that it towed surprisingly well.

We managed a 12.8L/100 for the main road driving bits sitting at 104, which blows the Triton out of the water by 2-3/100, and considering the Triton alone is a lighter vehicle shows how important that extra torque is. Driving around Litchfield pulled it down to 12.2L/100, clearly because its a 80 limit.

We are going to do a overnight trip to mataranka in the coming weekends, so with the LED module fitted, it will be interesting to see how she goes knowing the car "knows" the van is there.

The Mitch Hitch needed a few tightens over the course of the trip, mostly the centre bolt, but the bush is probably still seating and I might remove the paint from the area where the bolt/nut sit, to ensure no loss of torque. I did have a concern though, the bottom two bolts appear to be bottoming out on the vehicle frame and dont seem to be sitting square in the hole. Will investigate further as trips go on.

Something I will be doing is either get a hitch with a larger drop, or putting shackle extensions in the camper, because the van sat much higher than expected at the front.

So my list as of this week;

Must do;
-tint windows
-Mitch Hitch *Complete a fitted*
-dual battery
-underbody armour
-mud flaps
-brake controller *Fitted*
-CB

Want to do;
-roof rack with access ladder(front runner)
-auxiliary fuel tank
-rear draws which I can secure with turnbuckles and remove to use 3rd row *have started being built and if the planets align right, should have them in 4 weeks*
-probably a thousand things more, but can't think.

I was hoping to get a couple more bits of info from you guys as well.

First; can someone recommend a good set of towing mirrors. We currently have the magnetic type and im afraid the arm is going to destroy the window rubber.

Secondly; We use a Treg hitch, what are the steps people use to connect/disconnect. Connection was easy as I just lined everything up in access mode, but when it came to disconnect, i was having a bunch of drama as the rear suspension was either dropping or lifting as the weight was changing, before I had a chance to get back into the car.

Thanks again guys. Honestly your help has got me a lot further than if I was to wing it. Its good to know the little things.

GlennS · 31st March 2016, 06:42 AM

Brunsgaard towing mirrors

**LRD414** · 31st March 2016, 08:37 AM

Originally Posted by Konradical

We use a Treg hitch, what are the steps people use to connect/disconnect. Connection was easy as I just lined everything up in access mode, but when it came to disconnect, i was having a bunch of drama as the rear suspension was either dropping or lifting as the weight was changing, before I had a chance to get back into the car.

When you are ready for disconnect (jockey wheel down), select a height change with a door open.
This will impede the height change from occurring, waiting for door closure.
You should then be able to drive away from trailer or move the drawbar sideways to separate the halves.
See also this thread: http:///d3-d4-rrs/136911-disabling-auto-height-air-suspension.html

It's easier with couplings that only require vertical connect/disconnect movement such as the DO35.
This thread is mainly about couplings but also has a few hitch/unhitch tips:
http:///d3-d4-rrs/228383-trailer-couplings.html

Cheers,
Scott

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