Apparently it was a full day's work to remove the failed alternator and fit the new one.
Don't know the intricacies of removing and refitting a fuel pump though.
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Apparently it was a full day's work to remove the failed alternator and fit the new one.
Don't know the intricacies of removing and refitting a fuel pump though.
A days work - pigs arse! I've checked diagrams of the V8 and Disco V6 and the alternator appears to be in identical positions. Check out the video below - doesn't look that hard does it? The stealers should sack whoever is taking a day to do the job.
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eF37q7XlOsQ[/ame]
Im about to let you in on one of the many secrets of my trade.
in every manual (except haynes) there is a magical instruction or step zero. once someone who knows the dark arts of engine wrangling has read the rest of the instructions this secret instruction is revealed. Sometimes its just a hint others its a important step that otherwise omitted that makes a 10 minute job into 5 or 6 days if your dont follow it...
geerally tho its a description that outlines the best method of access..
becaue I like to flaunt some of you might have heard me or heard me quoted to say what was the most common one which is "dont forget the first step is to insert the mechanic into the engine bay."
now this secret instruction which has in one form or another been around since ugg said to ogg "looks like its done a bearing mate, big job, cost ya a carton and parts" as he sucked air in through his teeth not long after they got finished inventing the wheel and working out beer.
back then the instruction was always pretty simple "open the bonnet and reach in" and that worked right the way up to the series. later it evolved into open the bonnet stand up on the spare and reach over to....
which covered the v8s...
then it evolved into insert the mechanic into the engine bay. not for much but just eough to justify it because of hidden bolts that you just cant see or get to otherwise...
and then it got interesting...
with the development of jap micro cramming lots of stuff into smaller and smaller engine bays the instructions began to get wierd.. "cross breed a midget with an octopus, and give it cert II in automotive mechanics"
then it got industrial.
"remove the engine bay from the engine and reach in"
nd now its just plain freaky again with some jobs requiring that you first remove the engine bay and the get your halfbreed automidgpusanic involved.
Change an alternator as an example basically doubles in price with each step down the list you take..
$75 for a series
$150 for a v8 series or county
$300 for a disco
$600 for a td5
$1200 for your p38s and the like
$2400 for anything newer.
Its not that we're trying to rip you off but ever since jackass and the porn industry has been offering midgets good money for easier work, and I dont blame them persoally , I mean can you imagine how hard and messy it would be for someone with 4 stubby little limbs to... you get the idea so lets just say that the supply of cephelodgets suitable for training to get spanners into hard to reach places on vehicles has really dried up over recent years
Ean,Dont forget to tell your friend that there is a huge difference between cheap and cheap and nasty.There is some parts that i would not use anything but genuine,Water pump is one that comes to mind.
I'd be going elsewhere, your mechanic is ripping you off, your mechanic, should be able to go to the local LR Dealer to get the part and there should be no shipping charges, regarless of where the part is coming from.
AND
Shop around for parts, there are locally based aftermarket importers that are half if not less than half the price of Land Rover parts from a dealer, also, look at UK based parts specialist, often they are even cheaper, even with postage.
Baz.
Unlike the RRc and Disco 1 & 2 for may operations on the D4 and RRS its a body off procedure. If so that is the reason why replacing the tank unit is soooo expensive.Quote:
Originally Posted by kelvo
Karcraft perhaps?Quote:
Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies
As for prices, compare apples with apples. I've generally found the general pecking order from cheapest to most expensive to be
- Generic copy parts (often chinese)
- Aftermarket pattern (known manufacturer)
- OEM manufacturer for Landrover
- Landrover genuine.
If there is a significant labour cost in getting in and out to replace the part then I'd use Landrover or OEM quality, nothing less. You don't want to do the job twice, because the cheap part failed.
Also if you use a mechanic to do the work then let them supply the parts as they will warranty the entire job. If you supply your own to save a few bucks and they fail then its your problem and you may be up for more labour $.
And on a final note I've been a long term client of Wilf's as well and I've found his parts charges very reasonable.
Cheers
Steve
Nah, dead easy on a P38A, probably easier than a pre-serpentine RRC. The alternator is, however, dearer.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
Quote:
Originally Posted by lewy
If I had a friend Lewy I woud be sure to tell them. Think you may have been referring to the O/P, not me
Cheers Ean
Hi SteveQuote:
Originally Posted by Rok_Dr
Karcraft are in Silverwater (Sydney) as are several other LR parts importers, including British Motor Imports and the NSW branch of Rovacraft.
I was suggesting that WA members should check the price with Rovercraft who import to WA and then ship to their other branches. So while prices may be similar you'll save money and time on shipping.