The rods are indetectable at the dealer,only mins to replace.
I intend getting the llams unit into the future.I have a set of rods which Im yet to try.
I think you will destroy your mates 200 series off road.The rods help you keep your speed up off road,the height isnt a worry,just the dropping to on-road height over 50kmh
The other show stopper is our poxy choice of tyre size
Andrew
DISCOVERY IS TO BE DISOWNED
Midlife Crisis.Im going to get stuck into mine early and ENJOY it.
Snow White MY14 TDV6 D4
Alotta Fagina MY14 CAT 12M Motor Grader
2003 Stacer 525 Sea Master Sport
I made the 1 millionth AULRO post
Llams vs Rods - I considered cost, ease-of-use, functionality and ability to return to stock when I made this decision. Everybody will weigh up these factors a bit differently to suit their personal circumstances and intended use, so this is just one opinion.
I appreciate the ability that Llams provides to select the additional heights while driving, at will & almost immediately (~5 sec delay). Particularly offroad height for driving at 50-60kph and extended height without the drop-on-to-something trick, plus extra low for some city carparks with a roofrack onboard. You can achieve almost all this with rods but it's more fiddly.
I also appreciate having the recovery mode available with Llams that can get the suspension back to normal height if ABS related faults were to trigger lowering to minimum height. I haven't had to use this function but like knowing it's there (and I possibly haven't described the relevant faults properly).
So for me, the extra cost is worth it for the extra ease-of-use and functionality gained. That leaves the returning-to-stock consideration. This is easier with rods but not too difficult with Llams as it is a relatively quick task to unplug the module and return to original connections. Obviously the Llams dial will still be in place and could be a point of disagreement in a suspension related warranty discussion. But a number of people have been through such a scenario without too many dramas (no issues for me so far, touch wood).
Here's an old thread with lots of other opinions on the subject:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/...s-one-why.html
LC200 is better - I aim to ignore this sort of uninformed, ill considered and ignorant "expert opinion" with a Jedi like calm. I know what I've got and how good it is and that's all that really matters in the end. It's a waste of breath with most people that don't want to hear it or think about it, although it still occasionally surprises me how little real knowledge is out there among the unwashed masses.
However, if it's your mates and it's good natured and a bit of fun, just give it back as good as you get and don't let facts get in the way
Cheers,
Scott
D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
Link to my D4 Build Thread
D3 2005 V8 Petrol
Ex '77 RRC 2 door. Long gone but not forgotten.
My thoughts on LLAMS, GOE rods and the IIDTool for suspension height changes.
Most convenient - LLAMS. You can't beat the ease of use. If you have elderly /disabled passengers or need to access a low carpark LLAMS comes to the fore. If you are going from off-road to bitumen and back numerous times LLAMS will also be the easiest.
Best value - GOE rods. They are cheap they are robust, they give you the lift you want and get rid of the chime. Changing them over is easy on the front and a bit more difficult on the rear especially the first time.
Now the IIDTool not as convenient as LLAMS and about the same if not a little better than the rods. About the same price as LLAMS, however it does have the benefit of being a diagnostic tool and being able to modify some of the CCF.
If you are going to buy a diagnostic tool and you choose the IIDTool you wouldn't bother with the GOE rods. I already had the rods when I bought my IIDTool and I no longer bother changing them over. If you need to change heights beyond the standard settings often choose LLAMS.
With my IIDTool I have three calibrations saved and the factory default. Normal day to day is set 10mm below standard, this gives me more clearance in my garage and gives me a little more plushness in the suspension. When going off-road I set the height to my second setting +50mm which gives me plenty of clearance for normal obstacles and if more is needed I can go to off-road height. I have the third setting at +65mm though I haven't used it yet. If I'm just doing a short drive on bitumen (<50km) I stay at +50mm.
Fuji white RRS L494 AB Gone
2023 Ford Ranga
Any work shop supply and fit Liam's kit in Melbourne? Any good alternative to 18" compomotive rims since GOE is out of stock until Jan 2016? I only have a bot more free time over Christmas. Sadly to see two mates gave up their Dis4 to LC, I don't know if they ever learn to drive Dis4. Therefore, I will show them how DIS4 is capable to off-road later. Beach port is the place we will go.
Cheers,
Gary
Gone 05 D3 ARB Front Kaymar Rear Winch E-Diff LRA Tank Dual Battery
Current 2015 SDV6 SE. Tow Pro Mitch Hitch Llams C/motives 70ltr w/tank 2 x comp Traxide BMS-2 x Aux 150w Solar Uniden Engel ARB drawer F/Runner rack Light bar
Thanks, Soctt. You are right that I would ignore those negative sentiments, pick up more skills along way and show how capable DISC4 can be. It is sad that two of them actually own DISC4 and leave it to the miss shopping and picking up kids, perhaps they like the simplicity and low cost maintenance of LC range. We talked about going to Simpsons, one of them actually think air suspension is not great for sand driving. they perhaps only want LC, FJ or Patrol, Wrangler in their convey in case of faulty, and easy to repair.
Cheers,
Gary
He thought air suspension is not reliable as other methods, might be good on road and can caused the problem by sand. Coil doesn't have such problem, this is why many farmers using LC Series as for its simplicity. However, I should prove they are wrong on the issues once I get DISC 4 well equipped.
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