Thread: Disco 3 Motor Options

Daz.
Are you the bloke who has a Jeep workshop close to where the old Britparts people were????
Andrew

Originally Posted by LandyAndy

Daz.
Are you the bloke who has a Jeep workshop close to where the old Britparts people were????
Andrew

Yes that would prolly be me, I work on both Jeep and Land Rover.

Regards
Daz

That makes sense.Ive heard good reports of a shop that fixes both Jeep and Land Rover.You must be the man
Do you realise we have an area where vendors can post their details????
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/verandah/index5.html
Cheers
Andrew

Originally Posted by TerryO

As I have said previously 10k to change a engine over is very expensive, even with new pulleys, belts, hoses etc.

Having had it done on my D3 the cost was no where near that. Quite a number in here have had engines swapped over for around the 5-6k mark. If the 10k included new injectors as well then it's starting to sound nearly ok at a stretch.

While I'm not really questioning the price, I couldnt do a change over for that. If I went on the basics of ripping out the broken engine, putting in the used engine and back together, through me it would be $2700.00, so even if I cut it back to $2500, thats what $2500 - 3000 for an engine? Wish I could buy used engines for that.

It will no doubt get to the point where offering a budget change over will happen as the vehicle wont be worth much more than that. But at the moment Ive yet to see anyone offering used engines cheap enough.

Regards
Daz

Originally Posted by DazzaTD5

prolly most have been the front oil pump housing giving way, the others have been broken crank, one was a broken timing belt that had supposedly been changed, the last one I just done was a broken crank. km range from that early nasty 80,000km through to 200,000km plus. Doesnt seem to be rhyme or reason sometimes.

While that might all sound really terrible/unrelaible or I've got a long cue of Discovery 3, Range Rover Sport models all lined up waiting for new engine, this really isnt the case. I've been working on this model for close to, what 10 years now, so even spreading them out across that time, its one a year, hardly even something worth mentioning to be honest when compared to the amount out there. I'm sure there are plenty of other brands with a hit rate far far worse. As most of my work is word of mouth (customers and within the industry), I'd assume over this time I've gained a reputation of being at least a mildly decent repairer which prolly adds to me getting more jobs than some I guess.

I'm sure Kevin and his boys at Rovertech have done an awful lot more than me and are prolly far better at it.

Overall the Discovery 3 and Range Rover Sport are a great vehicle.

Regards
Daz

just a question on the engine swaps. I recently had mine replaced by an indie LR specialst. Sine then there are lots of "groans & creaking " noises, apprant when cornering or backing out of the drive. Not sure if it is the body rubber mounts not seated properly or is suspension not quite reseated after hanging down which is what the LR repaire told me, said they lubed the bushes and see how you go. In other words dont annoy us with "frivolous" complaints. After dropping $13k I'm not happy about all these noises, sounds like a graveyard full of goulls!!



thoughts on what it could be and how to fix it?

Originally Posted by PeterOZ

just a question on the engine swaps. I recently had mine replaced by an indie LR specialst. Sine then there are lots of "groans & creaking " noises, apprant when cornering or backing out of the drive. Not sure if it is the body rubber mounts not seated properly or is suspension not quite reseated after hanging down which is what the LR repaire told me, said they lubed the bushes and see how you go. In other words dont annoy us with "frivolous" complaints. After dropping $13k I'm not happy about all these noises, sounds like a graveyard full of goulls!!



thoughts on what it could be and how to fix it?

I don't comment on how other repairers do work nor can I know what they do.
But before I lower the body back on its main body to chassis mounts I do give the rubbers a quick look at, clean and spray with a silicone spray thats safe to use on rubber/plastics. I also use the silicone spray on all the plastic fittings and mounts.
The main body to chassis mounts do have a torque setting, so should be seated once torqued.
Older D3/RRS I don't reuse the push in plastic retainers that hold all the inner guards as on older vehicles its quicker for me to simply knock the tops off them for removal, either way I wouldnt have thought this would cause an issue to reuse them, its just time saving not to.

For the odd customer that has concerns (especially on a D4 or new RRS) about removing of the body to do repairs, apart from the fact this is by design. I do say that once the body has been refitted it will be to an equal standard (new vehicles) or better than it was (older vehicles). I've not had any body noise issues, but prolly due to the above reasons. It's not the sort of after the fact issue I want when doing these jobs, as your example, mechanically it might be perfect, yet you are not overly happy with it all.

IF and I say if this happened to one of my jobs, I'd prolly look at lifting the body again, or maybe unbolting the main mounts and lifting a few mm, which should be possible without complete trim removal and then give the the mounts a clean and spray, but as I said, its not for me to say what should and shouldnt be done at this point.

Regards
Daz

thanks mate. I don't they are too interested to be honest. They did say they rechecked the bolts and they were all tight but whetehr they spray with a silicone lube or not I don't know.


I just know it sounds awful and I'm not happy. I'll raide it with them again as I was wanting suspension work done. Dissapointing as I'm a long term customer.

Hi there. I have a 2012 Territory engine in my D3. I have done 40000km on it since Jan. There is only 1 difference that I am aware of that can be an issue and that is the injector pump. Ford and LR changed the pump at some stage. My suggestion is buy a new pump to suit your vehicle, buy Low km ford engine and go for it. If you can confirm the pump is the same great but that may not be easy. I paid 4K for the engine with 50000 on it. Wiring is all the same. No difference.