Preventative maintenance indeed. Crazy that it is required.
Cheers
Is it worth doing the manifolds as preventative maintenance when the belts are done , just bit the bullet and do it all...
Discovery 1 4.6, true trac front and rear, superior engineering arms,old tourer now bush toy
Discovery 4 3.0 HSE MY13 ECB Bull bar, winch, spot lights, aux fuel tank, Kaymar rear bar, duel wheel carriers, 18 tuff ant wheels 265/65/18 BFG KO2's for play
Preventative maintenance indeed. Crazy that it is required.
Cheers
I was tossing up the idea when I got my D4 at 160k kms, but decided against it due to the cost of parts.
At 230k kms during my routine underbonnet checks (whenever the bonnet is up I check for the signs of anything that may need replacing/repairing in the near future) I spotted the drivers side manifold had an oil stain the size of a 5c piece.
I started organising the parts required to change both manifolds and within a few weeks had the parts. By this time the crack had extended to about 40mm long, but there were no faults occurring yet.
I am glad I did not change them earlier as I managed another 70k kms before one let go.
As I'm looking to buy a D4 at the moment I'm wondering what year the slightly better manifold with ribs / thickness came in? I'm probably looking price wise at 2014 2015 d4's... but could stretch further if it gives me peace of mind.
Ive been reading this over the last couple days, and with mine hitting the 175k mark im thinking il need to change the manifolds out so i was wondering where evryone is buying theres.. thanks
With mine clocking over 183,000 kms, I’ll be checking my manifolds more thoroughly after reading this very interesting thread.
Touch wood, so far no issues, I regularly check under the engine cover for any signs of this happening.
D4 3.0L SE, MY10, Arctic White
ARB Colour-coded bullbar, Safari Snorkel, Traxide DBS, LRBT1 BT audio module, trying out some 19" Maxxis Bravo 980A/T's (ex Cooper Zeon LTZ's)
ex D1 2.5L 300Tdi, MY97 - loved it, gone to a better place.
If you do start getting a leak the car will throw a Restricted Performance Error when over 2500rpm. If you reset it and keep the revs below 2500 by manually changing gears the car will be drivable to get you out of trouble.
I couldn't even see mine when the guys tried to show me. It is well buried on top of the engine and a lot of stuff has to come off to be able to remove the manifolds. My 2010 model failed at around the mileage you are at.
D4 3.0L SE, MY10, Arctic White
ARB Colour-coded bullbar, Safari Snorkel, Traxide DBS, LRBT1 BT audio module, trying out some 19" Maxxis Bravo 980A/T's (ex Cooper Zeon LTZ's)
ex D1 2.5L 300Tdi, MY97 - loved it, gone to a better place.
Hi Bob,
Not entirely true as you need to have a significant leak for this to happen - by the time I had replaced the leaking manifold, the split was about 25mm long, oil stain of about the size of my palm and no restricted performance even when overtaking with high revs and load.
The place too look is under the foam surrounding the injectors - my photos are on my other phone, so I will try to upload them later
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