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Thread: 3 litre inlet manifold crack problems

  1. #91
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
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    Is it worth doing the manifolds as preventative maintenance when the belts are done , just bit the bullet and do it all...
    Discovery 1 4.6, true trac front and rear, superior engineering arms,old tourer now bush toy
    Discovery 4 3.0 HSE MY13 ECB Bull bar, winch, spot lights, aux fuel tank, Kaymar rear bar, duel wheel carriers, 18 tuff ant wheels 265/65/18 BFG KO2's for play

  2. #92
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    Oct 2007
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    Preventative maintenance indeed. Crazy that it is required.

    Cheers

  3. #93
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    Aug 2015
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    Coolamon, NSW
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    Quote Originally Posted by discomatt69 View Post
    Is it worth doing the manifolds as preventative maintenance when the belts are done , just bit the bullet and do it all...
    I was tossing up the idea when I got my D4 at 160k kms, but decided against it due to the cost of parts.
    At 230k kms during my routine underbonnet checks (whenever the bonnet is up I check for the signs of anything that may need replacing/repairing in the near future) I spotted the drivers side manifold had an oil stain the size of a 5c piece.
    I started organising the parts required to change both manifolds and within a few weeks had the parts. By this time the crack had extended to about 40mm long, but there were no faults occurring yet.
    I am glad I did not change them earlier as I managed another 70k kms before one let go.
    - Justin
    Selling soon - MY10 D4 3.0 TDV6 SE with E-Diff & LLAMS, 265/65R18 Maxxis Razr A/T
    Moved into MY12 L322 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography
    VK2HFJ

  4. #94
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    Sep 2018
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    Wollongong
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    As I'm looking to buy a D4 at the moment I'm wondering what year the slightly better manifold with ribs / thickness came in? I'm probably looking price wise at 2014 2015 d4's... but could stretch further if it gives me peace of mind.

  5. #95
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    Nth QLD
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    Ive been reading this over the last couple days, and with mine hitting the 175k mark im thinking il need to change the manifolds out so i was wondering where evryone is buying theres.. thanks

  6. #96
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    Sep 2014
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    Baldivis WA
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    With mine clocking over 183,000 kms, I’ll be checking my manifolds more thoroughly after reading this very interesting thread.

    Touch wood, so far no issues, I regularly check under the engine cover for any signs of this happening.

  7. #97
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    Jan 2009
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    Perth, WA
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    Oil stain location

    Quote Originally Posted by Grentarc View Post
    I was tossing up the idea when I got my D4 at 160k kms, but decided against it due to the cost of parts.
    At 230k kms during my routine underbonnet checks (whenever the bonnet is up I check for the signs of anything that may need replacing/repairing in the near future) I spotted the drivers side manifold had an oil stain the size of a 5c piece.
    I started organising the parts required to change both manifolds and within a few weeks had the parts. By this time the crack had extended to about 40mm long, but there were no faults occurring yet.
    I am glad I did not change them earlier as I managed another 70k kms before one let go.
    Hi Justin

    I have a MY10 SE TDV6 3.0L, that has almost done 230k kms... Where did you spot the oil stain? Just so I know what I'm looking for... Any chance of a photo with some sort of arrow/indicator?

    Thanks

    Rob
    D4 3.0L SE, MY10, Arctic White
    ARB Colour-coded bullbar, Safari Snorkel, Traxide DBS, LRBT1 BT audio module, trying out some 19" Maxxis Bravo 980A/T's (ex Cooper Zeon LTZ's)
    ex D1 2.5L 300Tdi, MY97 - loved it, gone to a better place.

  8. #98
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
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    Forrestfield WA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ghost-Who-Walks View Post
    Hi Justin

    I have a MY10 SE TDV6 3.0L, that has almost done 230k kms... Where did you spot the oil stain? Just so I know what I'm looking for... Any chance of a photo with some sort of arrow/indicator?

    Thanks

    Rob
    If you do start getting a leak the car will throw a Restricted Performance Error when over 2500rpm. If you reset it and keep the revs below 2500 by manually changing gears the car will be drivable to get you out of trouble.

    I couldn't even see mine when the guys tried to show me. It is well buried on top of the engine and a lot of stuff has to come off to be able to remove the manifolds. My 2010 model failed at around the mileage you are at.
    Bob

    2010 D4 3.0TDV6 SE, ediff, LLAMS, 5 x GOE wheels, LT285/60R18 BFG K02's, GOE Compressor Guard, LR Tank, Mitch Hitch, ECB Bull Bar, Kaymar Rear Bar, Traxide, Safari Snorkel.
    2019 Discovery 5 SD6 SE, 20 inch wheels, 275/55R20 Nitto Grappler G2 tyres

  9. #99
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Perth, WA
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    Oil stain location

    Quote Originally Posted by BobD View Post
    If you do start getting a leak the car will throw a Restricted Performance Error when over 2500rpm. If you reset it and keep the revs below 2500 by manually changing gears the car will be drivable to get you out of trouble.

    I couldn't even see mine when the guys tried to show me. It is well buried on top of the engine and a lot of stuff has to come off to be able to remove the manifolds. My 2010 model failed at around the mileage you are at.
    Hi Bob

    Thanks for the info - that was what I expected (removing lots of components)! I haven't had any issues (touch wood), that's why I was interested in Justin's comment regarding seeing an oil stain...

    Regards

    Rob
    D4 3.0L SE, MY10, Arctic White
    ARB Colour-coded bullbar, Safari Snorkel, Traxide DBS, LRBT1 BT audio module, trying out some 19" Maxxis Bravo 980A/T's (ex Cooper Zeon LTZ's)
    ex D1 2.5L 300Tdi, MY97 - loved it, gone to a better place.

  10. #100
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Coolamon, NSW
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobD View Post
    If you do start getting a leak the car will throw a Restricted Performance Error when over 2500rpm. If you reset it and keep the revs below 2500 by manually changing gears the car will be drivable to get you out of trouble.

    I couldn't even see mine when the guys tried to show me. It is well buried on top of the engine and a lot of stuff has to come off to be able to remove the manifolds. My 2010 model failed at around the mileage you are at.
    Hi Bob,
    Not entirely true as you need to have a significant leak for this to happen - by the time I had replaced the leaking manifold, the split was about 25mm long, oil stain of about the size of my palm and no restricted performance even when overtaking with high revs and load.
    The place too look is under the foam surrounding the injectors - my photos are on my other phone, so I will try to upload them later
    - Justin
    Selling soon - MY10 D4 3.0 TDV6 SE with E-Diff & LLAMS, 265/65R18 Maxxis Razr A/T
    Moved into MY12 L322 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography
    VK2HFJ

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