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Thread: 3 litre inlet manifold crack problems

  1. #131
    Join Date
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    Mee too

    Thanks for all of the previous posts - very illuminating, but also depressing.

    I now have a cracked left valve cover / intake manifold. I have a 2013 D4 SDV6 3.0l . I've got to tow a 3.1 tonne caravan back home (154km) (mostly down-hill). I have tried to make a temporary repair with some epoxy designed for bonding to plastic and rated to 260 degrees C. It may not last all of the way home, but I can always go back to resetting the ECU Errors and crawling up hills in low-range, keeping it under 2500 RPM.

    In the process of the temporary repair, I broke off a fragile hose that runs from each valve cover to a T piece. I have temporarily replaced it with some 10mm Air hose. Does anybody know what this hose is called and what it is for? pictures attached

    Annotation 2019-10-07 140805.jpg20191006_085849.jpg20191006_085830.jpg

    Cheers,
    Greg

  2. #132
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    It’s LR013531.
    Mine was broken too. More LR fragile plastic parts 3 litre inlet manifold crack problems
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  3. #133
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster View Post
    It’s LR013531.
    Mine was broken too. More LR fragile plastic parts 3 litre inlet manifold crack problems
    Considering the engines are provided by supplier / manufacturer as a drop in entity it’s hardly a fair comment.

    The fact that all manufacturers suffer plastic degradation seems to be overlooked also 3 litre inlet manifold crack problems

  4. #134
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    Plastic manifold. Fail
    Second plastic manifold. Fail.
    Plastic throttle body. Fail
    Plastic water outlet. Would have failed if I didn’t replace proactively.
    Plastic hose. Fail.

    In fact most other things have been reasonably reliable. And yes, my mums Golf had a solenoid break that was plastic at 200,000km.

    LR’s brand is affected by the quality of the product they sell. That they choose to use inferior products (because they have to as part of the group) is disappointing, but is still their issue ultimately.
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  5. #135
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    Manifolds are a known and now the latest revision seems to have sorted that. Testing will unfortunately never show the detriment of boost, heat and the ravages of time - hopefully they have that sorted.

    Throttle body? How did you kill that?

    Hoses and water outlets are service items on any vehicle.
    I wouldn’t trust a rubber hose over about 8 years.
    And I remember replacing many, many, thermostat housings made of cast alloy in under the time/distance we can get from the plastic unit.

    Plastic spigots should always be treated with kid gloves, I remember on my old Fords and Holdens the vacuum lines always broke at the plastic T pieces. And always at the most I opportune moments. Thankfully Adelaide had a 24 hour Auto parts shop on Brighton Road back then so it was just a matter of getting a mate keen to do a drive 3 litre inlet manifold crack problems

  6. #136
    BradC is offline Super Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tombie View Post
    I wouldn’t trust a rubber hose over about 8 years.
    And I remember replacing many, many, thermostat housings made of cast alloy in under the time/distance we can get from the plastic unit.
    The old cast thermostat housings were generally sacrificial, so they were designed to corrode like an anode in place of the rest of the motor.

    I've always used about 7 years as a guide to replace hoses and plastic bits. I've had to wind that back on the D3 as frankly I can't afford to replace all the plastic parts/hoses every 7 years. It'd be about half of the engine.

  7. #137
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    Tombie, throttle bodies are not uncommon it would seem. They split where the Y section is glued to the actual servo body. I thought I was special until I checked D3UK and found many other that had had the same problem.
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  8. #138
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    Thank you to all the previous posters, particularly for the inlet manifold pictures. Unfortunately, on a trip from Melbourne to the Gold Coast I spent the last 300km in cripple mode - restricted performance. The only benefit was a reduction in fuel use. I apologise unreservedly to all the cars and trucks that followed me on single lane roads as my MY13 D4 SDV6 exhibited the power of a Morris Minor up the hills. After a visit to a Gold Coast independent, the diagnosis was a cracked inlet manifold. It is the third such failure in as many weeks that the indy has seen. Thank you JLR for such a dodgy design. Maybe I should seek a list of all the other common failures to catch them before any further trips.
    So far the problems I have experienced in 3 years are:
    1. Sticky rear side door lock - $$$ fixed one, don't care about the other one.
    2. Brake pad warning - no squeaks and pads looked good so ignored for a few more thousand kms - $$ to fix broken wire on sensor
    3. Cracked inlet manifold - $$$$$ to fix.

    1 and 3 really are a JLR warranty issue due to poor design, but ....

  9. #139
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    Just checking

    So to recap:
    It's not just the MY2010 vehicles, whatever improvements were made from 2011 on are also failing with time?
    There's nothing that can be done in the way of preventative maintenance other than pre-emptively replacing them?
    There's no effective bush-mechanic fixes to get one back to civilisation?

    Thanks
    Now 2016 D4 HSE 'Leo' and Steve the Triumph Speed Twin
    Then 2010 D4 3.0 HSE 'James'
    Then 2010 RRS TDV8 'Roger' w traxide DBS, UHF, Cooper Zeons, Superchips remap
    Then 2010 D4 TDV6 'Jumbo' w traxide DBS
    First love 2002 D2 TD5 'Disco Stu'

  10. #140
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    From around 2013 I think they had improved. You can take a bottle of epoxy glue and coat the crack. You might get back like that, or at least progress and reapply.
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

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