Trailer Couplings.

That's the thing - a pintle doesn't rattle constantly - only when the front of the trailer unloads going over a bump. There is no front to rear movement, only about 1/8" above the eye, so they aren't as bad as everyone makes out. And, yes, we can have a conversation in the 101 easily - I have terraphones installed... :D

Even though my van is an on road van, I've dragged it down plenty of tracks to get it to where we want to camp - usually tracks that are only 100's of meters long and what you'd call 'Easy'or very small bits of 'Medium' at the most, but it means I get to camp in some nice places. Doing this, I've tested the limits of a standard hitch and ball more than once. The van handles the tracks no problems - you just tip toe into where you need to go - good wheel placement gets you a long way. 2.5 tonnes would be a different story, but I bet you'd get it in and out of the Potato patch with the RRC without and issue. :)

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Originally Posted by bacicat

a pintle doesn't rattle constantly

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What the hell is a pintle - I am not a caravaner :p

Martin

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Originally Posted by letherm

What the hell is a pintle - I am not a caravaner :p

Martin

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Pintle hooks aren't generally used on caravans - its a Military style coupling. Very strong, and it's design means it can't come apart once locked and gives a huge amount of articulation.

If you get a pintle hook, make sure it is a rotating pintle hook, with a fixed ring on the trailer.

Aaron

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Originally Posted by bacicat

That's the thing - a pintle doesn't rattle constantly - only when the front of the trailer unloads going over a bump. There is no front to rear movement, only about 1/8" above the eye, so they aren't as bad as everyone makes out. And, yes, we can have a conversation in the 101 easily - I have terraphones installed... :D

Even though my van is an on road van, I've dragged it down plenty of tracks to get it to where we want to camp - usually tracks that are only 100's of meters long and what you'd call 'Easy'or very small bits of 'Medium' at the most, but it means I get to camp in some nice places. Doing this, I've tested the limits of a standard hitch and ball more than once. The van handles the tracks no problems - you just tip toe into where you need to go - good wheel placement gets you a long way. 2.5 tonnes would be a different story, but I bet you'd get it in and out of the Potato patch with the RRC without and issue. :)

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Potatoe patch is just a nice gravel road for access. We should be able to get pretty much any 'van in there so long as it's dry. No way would I get mine in/out of there if damp. On All Terrains I barely got out last time not towing :) They just churn and slip on top of the slush.

seeya,
Shane L.

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Originally Posted by jonesy63

Have you tried leaving a door open while you hitch/unhitch? Eg. Turn D3/D4/RRS off, leave driver's door open, unhitch, start car and drive half a metre forward... close door and then the car will adjust height.

FWIW, my camper came with a 2T AL-KO off road hitch.
AL-KO Off Road Couplings
It is similar to the Hyland hitch, but has a plastic locking sleeve which is used to lock the centre while hitching/unhitching. I like the design as I don't have to change the ball - so I can tow our boat or box trailer without changing anything.

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Yes i leave the drivers door open as i hitch and unhitch. I thought it would stop the height adjustment but it definitely still makes minor adjustments.

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Originally Posted by RoverLander

Yes i leave the drivers door open as i hitch and unhitch. I thought it would stop the height adjustment but it definitely still makes minor adjustments.

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The door open must be combined with selection of a different suspension height in order to keep the suspension from adjusting/self-leveling.

So for example, select Off Road height when in Normal height and immediately open the door and keep it open (vehicle running). Same would be true if going from Normal to Access. The vehicle is waiting for all doors to be closed before continuing with the height change. Once you're happy, close the door and the previously selected height change will be completed.

Scott
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Originally Posted by DoubleChevron

I don't get the need for offroad couplings on 2.5ton+ caravans. After all, there is no way your pulling them down any sort of bush track that requires lots of articulation :wasntme:

seeya,
Shane L.

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Hi Shane, and I hope it never happens to anyone, but I see one of the benefits is of not trying to force the car to follow via the to hitch if the van rolls side on - perish the thought.
I do expect to pull our van through creeks etc. Cheers Gavin

[QUOTE=Shortyesquire;2456602]Wow that is a palace! I bet your wife would hate our tiny Tvan, except the mattress...

Not meaning to hijack thread.

Actually, she likes the TVan, but too small for her and grandies.

We too have a brilliant mattress tempur type locally sourced/made.

We don't have some of the more esoteric stuff shown in the video (it's the owners personal 24' van shown, and needs a US truck to pull it - his is over 3.5T, and now for sale), plus they now extend the towbar about 300 mm beyond the deck so that in an emergency any vehicle, including those with rear protrusions eg tyres can quickly move it out of trouble with the deck open.

My lowly D2a won't change the rear SLS suspension height if a door is open.

Engage Off-road height, it starts raising, open door to get out it stops. Close door, it restarts. Walk to back of Disco, and when the hitch is at the right height, open back door and SLS stops raising. Great for hitching up single handed :)