Reading this and watching someone fiddling with theirs on a stinking hot day on a tight track makes me very very glad I have Llams. Fantastic bit of kit and worth every $. Just sit in your air conditioned cabin and twist the dial:D
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Reading this and watching someone fiddling with theirs on a stinking hot day on a tight track makes me very very glad I have Llams. Fantastic bit of kit and worth every $. Just sit in your air conditioned cabin and twist the dial:D
So when installing/unistalling at the beach track it would be in ones interest to find a hollow in the track so one could park over it and make getting underneath easier/safer????
Must admit I havent looked underneath yet to find where they are.Its going to the dealer next week so I will wait until its back home.
Andrew
Fuse 26 in the engine bay fuse box is the one thats stops the suspension moving,but still be careful if going underneath the vehicle just in case.
There is no need to get under the vehicle. The rods are accessible by reaching through the wheel arches. The risk is that your arm could be pinched if the car dropped especially if adjusting the rear as it is a little tighter to access. That is why you place the jack under the chassis rail. With practice it is very quick and easy.
"And once you've done it a few times, it's quite easy (with a little lube). It's mostly by feel, particularly in the back."
Now that belongs on a t-shirt! :D
Quote:
Originally Posted by gghaggis
What about when changing a wheel , is there a problem with door open etc when jacking , bit confused now . or should I pull the fuse . ?
No need to pull the fuse,change the wheel exactly as written in the owners manual:)Quote:
Originally Posted by Fatso
Once changed the vehicle may not look level,but don't worry it will sort itself out after a drive.
Do you need to place the Jack under the chassis when you want to adjust the rods? Surely that'd take more than a minute.
This works for me. My rods are always installed and I drive at normal road height.Quote:
Originally Posted by BSM
Others may use other techniques / there can always be more safety involved I suppose.
1) when adjusting rods from normal road position to the "trick the sensor" height.
Car is put in off-road height electronically from toggle switch.
Front rods are easy to access with extra height and if wheels turned slightly.
Back rods - reach over rear wheel.
The trick here is to not drop the rod down ( the hole you want to relocate requires the rod to be lifted up) this in itself makes his exercise "safer" as the car will want to adjust once the second hole is located BUT the car will want to RAISE.
2) when going from "trick the sensor" height back to normal road position.
Car put into off-road electronically from toggle switch (this will be extended height and give plenty of space)
I ALWAYS pull the fuse now.
Fronts are easy. (Now if the fuse was not pulled the car would lower after about 5 seconds - not a big problem on the fronts)
Backs - it's the arm over the wheel position that would cause damage if the fuse was not pulled and you had a problem / took your time as a lowering 2.5t vehicle on your arm would not be a pleasant experience.
You could pull the fuse on points 1 and 2 above, and some may. I did for the first few times, until I got the hang of it. I still do on point 2
Again, practise is your friend; these rods are a quick, simple and inexpensive lift kit. Awesome also.
Cheers
Hi,
I got the GOE Height sensor rods 2015 model, All-rubber 3-way: -20mm, std and +60mm. Never put them on the car. Still brand new.
Price : $60 ( Purchased for $80)
Have posted the add under sales page
Regards
Shiva