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Thread: 2014 D4 in Limp Mode

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bradmc View Post
    Update: The car has been running fine the last few days. I've done approx. 60kms of testing and the car drives as normal.

    I did test the main battery this afternoon after it had been sitting idle for 4 odd hours, and it was at 12.37v.

    Could it be the main battery (2yrs old) is on its way out and the aux battery is topping it up over time? The aux battery was at 12.7, noting I had a car fridge connected; was wanting to see if the DBS was draining the main somehow.

    I'll test the main again in the morning.

    I do not have dual aircon. But I did notice some premature wear on the Anderson plug wire loom that runs to the rear of my car. Taped it up as a precaution.

    Planning on a day trip tomorrow around Lithgow, if it's going to fail again, that's the time it will 😀 Oh well, who dares wins.
    Enjoy your drive, I just went for a potter with the family along the Turon to Sofala today, very pleasant. Lemme know if it doesn't go so well and you need a pick up. Any excuse to get back out in the bush
    Now 2016 D4 HSE 'Leo' and Steve the Triumph Speed Twin
    Then 2010 D4 3.0 HSE 'James'
    Then 2010 RRS TDV8 'Roger' w traxide DBS, UHF, Cooper Zeons, Superchips remap
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  2. #22
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    Battery

    Howdy,
    Battery's are cheap sounds like worth putting one in anyway if its 2 years old. Will let you down sooner or later.

    Cheers

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mungus View Post
    Sorry for those that have read this too many times, but do you have rear air-con Brad? A link to the thread below or the following extract. Hope you sort the issue soon.


    "What he (the tech - my newest best friend) found, was where the rear a/c unit is located behind the left cargo space panel, a cable loom that runs under the a/c unit was being squashed and rubbing on the metal body, wearing through the Canbus cables and intermittently shorting to earth. He has moved the a/c unit slightly higher, put some of that door seal strip over the panel joint edge and insulated the worn/cut insulation. Car was cleaned and I was just as excited to get her back as the day I picked her up. The report will be sent to LRA who will most likely include the cause for diagnosis of future similar issues, but for any MY14 owners out there with rear a/c, keep this in mind if you ever lose your dash cluster, stereo, a/c, windows and door locks." or other weird electrical faults it also seems!


    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/...d-reset-2.html


    I was amazed how affected my old D4 was by a wee bit of electricity discharging where it wasn't supposed to. It was a long story and took LR a while to find the issue but in the end an earth lead was arcing UNDER the connector. I think it was probably loosened off during the couple of body-off turbo changes I had. I was shown an electrical cable where the connector looked perfect from above but was badly burned underneath.


    My symptoms included:
    • Radio channels changing all by themselves.
    • Windows changing direction when any door was opened mid operation.
    • A 'static discharge' like noise coming through the sound system. This made myself and LR suspicious that something had not been connected properly after the turbo operations but they supposedly checked everything they had touched.
    • Headlights flashing of their own accord .... which culminated in a conversation with the Boys in Blue when I 'flashed' them as they drove past .
    • But the weirdest one was a really rough gear change from 3rd to 4th .... don't ask me how that worked but it was always between these gears unless driven manually. I'd had the adaption software reloaded several times which would fix things for a short period of time and then the car would start mucking around again.

    As soon as the earth lead was replaced, I had no more issues.....it was such a relief.

  4. #24
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    Update: drove from inner-west Sydney to Lithgow and back today. (approximately 200kms). No issues with the car in the bitumen, however; on the rough stuff I got the following faults .. Stability Control not available .. Emergency Brake Assist not available .. HDC not available.

    The faults came up maybe 6 times, in particular when the car hit a big pothole or was jolted. I was able to turn the car off and the fault cleared until the next jolt. Reset every time after restarting the car.

    Back to LR Service in the New Year.

  5. #25
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    LRD414 is offline Super Moderator Subscriber
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    Brad, if a dealer finds that one of your accessories has led to a shorted wire, it may become an expensive exercise. I would have a close look around your dual battery setup just in case you can find the issue and have it repaired by the installer at no cost to you. You are no worse off if you find nothing.

    Scott
    D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
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  6. #26
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    Will do Scott. I will remove the aux battery and have a look around prior to sending it off to LR.

    Thanks
    Brad

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bradmc View Post
    Will do Scott. I will remove the aux battery and have a look around prior to sending it off to LR.

    Thanks
    Brad
    Brad.
    Have a look around the dual battery system,see if there are any connectors they may have disturbed during the instal.It sounds like a loose connection when you say bumps are triggering the faults.
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    Andrew
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  8. #28
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    As posted above, just be careful if taking it to the dealer.

    LRA have now stopped dealers fitting anything that is not an LR part, so they may have to charge you for anything they deem as not being a warranty problem.

    If you check out your wiring, start with the earth on the auxiliary battery. Find out where that goes, because, from the photos, that setup looks a bit strange.

    They have a heavy negative cable on your auxiliary battery, but the only heavy positive cable is attached to your cranking battery.

    Again, find out where they have connected the earth cable coming from your auxiliary battery and see where they have run the heavy positive cable coming from your cranking battery.

  9. #29
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    Drivesafe, the heavy positive to the main battery is from the winch. I am about to operate on the DBS, I'll let you know how I get on.

    Thanks to all you have posted, i really appreciate the advice I receive.

    DBS has been disassembled, i found these two wires from the Redarc charger with exposed ends. They are not meant to be connected, but could this cause a short?

    I will run the car for a couple of days to see if the car registers any faults. Hopefully this is the cause of the issue.



    Edit: Drove the car after disassembling the DBS, and drove over a speed hump at speed to give the car a jolt, following fault codes appeared as per yesterday: Stability Control not available .. Emergency Brake Assist not available .. HDC not available.

    Frustrating.

  10. #30
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    It's not the DBS and it's not the winch, both have been disconnected.

    Car still in fault mode. Next!?

    It's something loose. It only happens when the car is jolted e.g. Going over a speed hump a little aggressively or when on rough tracks.

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