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The tip is to keep your hand on the tailgate as it closes, the backward resistance from pressure will often stop it latching. So place your hand on the handle and firmly but not rough, push it and continue the push to stop any 'bounce back', works all the time for me. If you just throw it down and let go before it contacts, then it often won't latch. Same with the doors, continue the push while closing, don't let go, especially the last door as the seals are amazingly good.
Yep - I've found the same with mine (and educated SWMBO of the same). Gentle pressure on all doors until they are fully closed and latched, and they close fully every time. I grab the bottom rung of the ladder on the tailgate of mine rather than pushing on the "handle" and it really requires no pressure at all to fully close and latch. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Greatsouthernland
I used to detect when cornering a slight movement in the seat base. It was a notchy feeling. Minute but some how annoying. I never reported to the dealer because it was too hard to explain and too infrequent. It either stopped or I got so used to it I don't notice it anymore.
It's interesting how both your niggles are the same ones I had. If it helps neither issue niggles me any more. As per earlier advice on this thread I now know how to close the tailgate and get it right each time without slamming or even thinking.
Thanks so much for all the help everyone, the information has been wonderful. I tried the trick with the doors - keeping one open while closing others, and it worked a treat. The doors closed much much better, softer and easier.
The tailgate didn't improve however, but I'll try to close it keeping my hand on it and see how that goes.
Thanks again everyone :)
The tailgate might just be an adjustment; I know mine needed it, and also incidentally found a rusted screw in one of the rubber stops.
Have never felt the seat mechanism in my nearly 3 years of ownership; and this is the softer Windsor leather.
Help!!
Upper tailgate is stuck closed on my MY11 D4.
The actuator sounds like its moving only a part of the way, I get the proper 'clunk' when unlocking the car with the fob, but the sensor between the licence plate lights does not let me open the tailgate.
The door appears to unlatch, and on the dash display it tells me that the tailgate is open, but I cannot get to open at all.
On re-locking the car with the remote, I get the double horn that tells me one of the doors is not closed. Applying pressure to the middle of the tailgate seems to re-latch it so that car can lock.
Are there any other tricks to get it manually released so I can try to fix the actuator as described elsewhere on this forum.
I've read a few of the posts, but nothing that tells me how to get the tailgate open when the actuator fails.
Any help is appreciated.
Cheers,
Eric
There are many articles on the topic. You’ll need to rip and tear at the bottom door cover from inside until you get access to the actuator then manually release it. From there replace the actuator. The actuator can be accessed through one of the black plastic seals.
Hi Eric.Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE
A couple of you tube clips may give you a clue. From previous threads since I joined the forum I believe that you will have to remove the lower tailgate cover and manually release the cable. You'll get the idea from the American clip. The other one is in case that works in your car. I have a 2013 model and my dash doesn't have those buttons. Search the forum further as I believe that there will be more threads about this issue.
LR3 LAND ROVER TAIL GATE WONT OPEN I SHOW YOU HOW TO OPEN WHEN IT IS CLOSED - YouTube
How to replace the tailgate opener switch on Land Rover Discovery 3 & 4 - YouTube
HTH
Martin
Thanks all for the tips and videos. O/S atm so will have to wait until I get back.