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I assume its the same box as the D3 , when you have to cut off the plastic stem on the plastic pan be careful, about a litre of oil sits in a dip in the sump and when you cut thru the plastic if you let it drop you will get a nice oil bath.
Its not a hard job just take your time and watch the sump gasket stays on the surface you put it on , some good gasket sealant will be a good investment as its not something you want to have to remove again because its leaking.
Cheers Ean
Tip number 7 :D
Before you get stuck in proper make sure that you can access the front and rear torx screws with the tools you have, even a 1/4 inch drive rachet wont fit in the space. If it's all too hard go to the shop and buy something that will do the job before taking all the other bolts out. And as said above you need gasket goo, getting the new sump back in is tricky, the gasket needs to be held in place.
2c
Quote:
Originally Posted by kenl
A torx bit with a ratchet spanner works well for this, even if you cut off the end of a torx style allen key short enough and then use the ratchet end of the spanner to loosen / tighten.
Cheers Ean
HI Wombat,
great thread (looking at upgrading to a LR4)
what oil are you using for your 2010 SDV6?
I understand the oil specs are to meet WSS-M2C934-B specs?
the oils I have been looking up are either non existent in Australia or ridiculously expensive?
I understand the 5w30 Castrol Edge professional is a good one to use, but i cant find it retail anywhere??
there are a few other oils i have been looking at but they seem to be unavailable in Oz?
Valvoline Synpower ENV C1 meets WSS-M2C934-B specsQuote:
Originally Posted by apachefreak
ENV C2 | Engine OIl | Full Synthetic | Valvoline | Valvoline.com.au
The tube can be snapped off by pulling the pan rearwards sharply. You might need a couple attempts to pull it sharply enough.
Just in case you missed the requirement, the gearbox has to be in neutral with the engine idling whilst topping-up to overflowing then immediately fit the plug before stopping the engine.
Either remove the rear cross-member or cut the plastic pan in 2 to remove the pan.
When mine was done the mechanic also cycled through the gears whilst topping up (ie foot on brake and moved through gear box to engage all gears for 20 secs each). Obviously then needs two people.
Anyone know if we HAVE TO use a computer to bleed brakes in Discovery 4? TOPIX says we do, however there does not seem to be a method to bleed them in the IID Tool... Not sure what model diagnostic unit besides the T4 will make that happen...
I couldn't find the bleed option on the BBS faulmate extreme either, that's not say it's not there though.
On my D2 it was easy to change the brake fluid with a nanocom, so I'm not sure why it would be missing from more modern diagnostic units?
It's probably referring to the dealer computer equip at $100k+ [emoji51]