Throttle Response

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What motor is in your MY10 D4? 2.7, TDV6 3.0 or SDV6 3.0

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Going by the super chip site, I think I have the TDV6 (245HP) 3.0 241BHP (9/2009 onwards)
Where would you recommend to get an ECU remap in NSW?

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Wind Booster is nothing but the electronic equivalent of pushing throttle further.
It can't remove lag...

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Being a digital signal (as it is fly by wire) I have in mind that if you rescale the input signal to the ECU, Im imagining that it would be very similar a remap of an ECU without the need to actually modify the original factory ECU.

I would of expected the ECU to ONLY do whatever the input signal is telling it to do, no matter if the input signal is linear, parabolic or exponential, the output should reflect the input signal given (of course dependent on actual CPU calculation speeds).
Unless of course if the ECU has limits programmed into it to detect abnormal stepping changes.

At work I calibrate all types of rosemount transmitters being for pressure, flow, level, differential pressure etc and the 4-20mA signal output is always directly related to the input signal given. (again dependant on update times and calculation speeds of the device, aka processing time)

Being a plug and play device, That was why I was so interested in these windboosters/ sprint booster/ potent booster etc etc

Has anyone actually used one of these little units?


BTW
Happy Easter! :)

I did enquiry to superchips
Here is Peter James respond.

Thanks for your email about upgrading your Discovery 4.

We do alot of 3.0TDV6s as they respond so well to being Superchipped. You will get alot better throttle response, low down and midrange torque and the car will pull all the way to the red line. Many owners report anything up to 10% saving on fuel as well, due to the fact there is less gear changing. And the annoying lag that they have at low revs also disappears. With the Discovery 4 the gains are as follows;
LAND ROVER - DISCOVERY - DISCOVERY TDV6 - 3.0 - 210BHP - VERSION (1)
PERFORMANCE
Original HP: 210 (152kW) Original Nm: 520
Tuned HP: 260 Tuned Nm: 620
HP Increase: 50 (38kW) Nm Increase: 100
% Increase: 23% % Increase: 19%


All fittings come with a lifetime warranty and have a million dollar cover and we have never had a claim in 39 years. We are the official Mini Cooper, Audi and VW Rally team ECU reprogrammers in the UK and as such work closely with the manufacturers so we do not go over their recommended tolerances. As such, if you do not want to tell them it has been done, they will never know.

The upgrades takes about 3-4 hours to do and we come to you to do it. The price is AUD$1,349 fitted. If you'd like to go ahead let me know and I'll arrange a time. I will need somewhere to work, such as a garage with light, power and a bench or table, as we need to programme direct to the ECU. Ideally I'd start mid afternoon and be finished by about 7pm. We can also do an EGR delete for you at the same time. You need to blank the EGR off as near as possible to when we map it out as otherwise the engine may go into limp home mode. It shouldn't do, but there is a chance, so good idea to physically blank it off as well.
Please note this is not a plug in box. All they do is up the fuel line pressure. Now bearing in mind your vehicle is running about 15-20,000psi in the fuel lines, do you want anymore? We have seen over ten cases where the pressure has been so high that the injectors have bowled, so instead of being shaped like a V they have gone to a U shape, or burnt the tips out. Also some where the fuel has been forced past the rings and into the sump. Diesel in the engine oil is not a good look! We don't up the fuel rail pressure, we remap the ECU, so change the pulse, ie when it puts fuel in and for how long, the timing, throttle response and boost on the turbo. A remap is a more complete method of upping the power and does not put any extra strain on the fuel line.

Hope this helps and if you have any other queries, please feel free to get in touch. I will be in Melbourne the first week of May as I have some jobs booked to do there. I am in Adelaide on 29th April and then will be coming through on my way to Sydney and Brisbane. So happy to do it then if you wish.

All the best.

Peter James BSc.(Econ.) B.P.B.
Peter James Tuning Ltd, exclusive distributors for
Superchips & Bluefin in New Zealand & Australia
Mobile: +64 (0)27 2757574
Office: +64 (0) 800 89 CHIPS (24477)
Email: peter@superchips.co.nz
Web: ECU Remap | Chipping | Engine Tune | Peter James Tuning | Superchips
ECU Remap | Chipping | Engine Tune | Peter James Tuning | Superchips
Rediscover the joy of the open road


I think will go for it, but i am not sure if should i wait till warranty finish another six month.
Dali

Cost is approx $1300

Mine is the 2.7,had it done here by MR auto,it is a Bruce Davis power upgrade and EGR disable.The turbo lag has virtually disappeared,and it definitely has a lot more power and torque.

I am pretty sure they also have one for the 3.0l D4 models.

I've just had a Blinding Flash Of the Obvious ..... a BFO if anybody wants to use that term :-)


My 'Lag' situation occurs when the engine just does not rev .... even when the peddle is on the floor.


I do have a background in technical stuff but do not have intimate knowledge of turbocharged engines. However, isn't turbo lag a situation when the engine revs up and it takes a while for exhaust gas to spool up the 'impeller' in order to produce a pressurised fuel air mix?


If so, I assume there must be a rev increase with no obvious power increase ... until everything catches up.


This is not the situation I am in. I just get nothing .... a flat engine and then a "holy McGeebers' moment when everything winds up.


Got to be software .... This would explain why ECU remaps or equivalents work, would it not?

No just typical turbo lag - put your foot down and until the turbo spools up you've got access to about 20kw & 50nm ;( - I used to have an auto wrx - wow you want turbo lag nothing for what seems like minutes then propelled to 100in 5 secs - the number of times I almost rear ended cars when I first got it !!!

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Originally Posted by Celtoid

You're a hundred precent correct and I regularly select 'Sport' to re-educate. However, I haven't found this absolute and I think my older 6 speed 3.0L was more responsive to this strategy than the new 8 speed ZF.


I'm wondering if it's about how the ECU and gearbox communicate. Myself and a couple of other forum members discussed a while back, a very odd situation, when your engine just seems dead.


I was on Fraser Island and the driving for once had been so easy, I turned everything off. I was in highway mode in high range (DSC was off). A couple of times .... and only a couple of times I applied pressure to throttle to get over a hump on a sand road .... and nothing happened. I mean nothing. I thought I'd had a failure. Unlike on the road, I also didn't get that big rush of power and torque when everything lit up. Even with more pressure ..... a very, very, very slow build of power occurred.


Head scratching.

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Have you checked you don't have a partially open or sticking EGR valve? The valves are known to coke up over time and will stick either partially or fully open.
The end result is no turbo boost whatsoever until you gain enough engine RPM to overcome the partially or fully open EGR and start receiving boost which describes the very, very, very slow build up of power you make.

Happened to my 2010 2.7l D4 and the quote to remove and replace the EGR valves made my eyes water so I sought an alternate solution.

I had the ECU remapped with a 'soft' performance tune as well as a software fix that keeps the EGR valves completely closed forever. Problem fixed with no further hesitation or lack of power from idle.

My 2.7l D4 now has similar performance as a stock 3.0l D4 so I'm double happy :cool:;)

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Originally Posted by Celtoid

I've just had a Blinding Flash Of the Obvious ..... a BFO if anybody wants to use that term :-)


My 'Lag' situation occurs when the engine just does not rev .... even when the peddle is on the floor.


I do have a background in technical stuff but do not have intimate knowledge of turbocharged engines. However, isn't turbo lag a situation when the engine revs up and it takes a while for exhaust gas to spool up the 'impeller' in order to produce a pressurised fuel air mix?


If so, I assume there must be a rev increase with no obvious power increase ... until everything catches up.


This is not the situation I am in. I just get nothing .... a flat engine and then a "holy McGeebers' moment when everything winds up.


Got to be software .... This would explain why ECU remaps or equivalents work, would it not?

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I has something similar in my previous D4. At some stage it developed a problem where on occasions there was no response to the throttle. I dont mean lack of power, i mean it was as if i hadnt even pressed the accelerator.

After some investigations and reading, i insisted that the dealer replace the brake light switch. It only costs about $60. Fixed the problem. The reason is that if the switch is sticky then the car thinks the brake is being pressed and therfore ignores accelerator input...hence a dead throttle. There are other posts on here about the problem and a description of why the brake switch goes faulty after a while. This is a cheap any easy thing to try to see if it fixes your problem.

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Originally Posted by RoverLander

I has something similar in my previous D4. At some stage it developed a problem where on occasions there was no response to the throttle. I dont mean lack of power, i mean it was as if i hadnt even pressed the accelerator.

After some investigations and reading, i insisted that the dealer replace the brake light switch. It only costs about $60. Fixed the problem. The reason is that if the switch is sticky then the car thinks the brake is being pressed and therfore ignores accelerator input...hence a dead throttle. There are other posts on here about the problem and a description of why the brake switch goes faulty after a while. This is a cheap any easy thing to try to see if it fixes your problem.

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I had the exact same issue during the first 6 months and the dealer altered the gap between the pedal and the sensor and this fixed it. Same explanation basically - the computer thought the brake was still depressed.

Martin

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Originally Posted by Catmatt

Have you checked you don't have a partially open or sticking EGR valve? The valves are known to coke up over time and will stick either partially or fully open.
The end result is no turbo boost whatsoever until you gain enough engine RPM to overcome the partially or fully open EGR and start receiving boost which describes the very, very, very slow build up of power you make.

Happened to my 2010 2.7l D4 and the quote to remove and replace the EGR valves made my eyes water so I sought an alternate solution.

I had the ECU remapped with a 'soft' performance tune as well as a software fix that keeps the EGR valves completely closed forever. Problem fixed with no further hesitation or lack of power from idle.

My 2.7l D4 now has similar performance as a stock 3.0l D4 so I'm double happy :cool:;)

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Thanks mate,


I don't think that was the issue. This was over a year ago and never happened again. In fact it never, ever happened at any stage in low range. Not sure in hindsight if I turned on a TR selection whilst in high range .... I don't think I would have.


I will definitely look into this Brake Switch situation. I was a non-believer but it sounds like it has been an un-usual suspect for a few folks. Thanks letherm and RoverLander.


I'll report back.


So many owners reporting this issue for years though .... it's gobsmacking.