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Hi Mark, when fitting these to an older TDV8 how can I be sure the EGR's are actually fully closing? That is, are there any fault codes that are recorded if they dont fully close or any symptoms? Like if they are partially gunked up. Or should I strip and clean the EGR's when fitting the emulators? (a PITA of a job apparently). ThanksQuote:
Originally Posted by Gally
Is EGR still necessary if diesels go with AdBlue, as it would appear the idea of both is to reduce NOx emissions?
The problem with AdBlue is domestic users of diesel won't want to fill up with fuel AND urea. How many will forget to fill up with the urea? Also, I doubt there will be retrofit kits for AdBlue for our vehicles
I logged the temps in SDD pre emulators and post emulators with warm up times and drive cycles.Quote:
Originally Posted by Grentarc
I found that there was a minimal increase in temperature on warm up due to a better combustion, owing to the lack of inert gas and soot from the EGR's.
If I drove the car hard with the EGR's connected there was the same increase in temperature.
Once the engine had reached operating temperature there was no noticeable difference.
The EGR's only open at such a small rev band and is closed on acceleration.
So the car is doing nothing that it isn't already designed to do.
With the recycled hot exhaust gas being removed from the intake, you are increasing the efficiency of the engine. It can do the same work easier. For a given torque value and rev point the PCM can pick a lower point in the map to do the same work.
This is were you get your increase in fuel economy from.
(I have tuned all models and they have the same increases in temp and some have done over 250,000 Km's with no ill effects )
I also noticed a decrease in temperature on the EGR cooler itself. The cooling system is constantly cooling a flow of exhaust gas through both the EGR coolers. say the exhaust gas is 560 deg. you have taken some of this load of the cooling system.
On a few cars it was noticed that the coolers had actually started leaking coolant. This adds steam in the combustion, which can really stress the engine. so with the valves closed you remove this potential problem.
All in all its only ever going to be a positive thing.
I wouldn't worry about stripping them and your right it inst the favorite job in the workshop.Quote:
Originally Posted by Marty110
When you put the ignition on the engine management looks for a closed egr value of about 0.8 volts. if it doesn't see this then when you start the engine you would get an F for fault in the LCD of the instrument cluster.
for those with EGR faults already logged, it is worth clearing them and then putting the ignition on to check the values as most faults are logged for the opening range of the valve as it gets clogged up.
If you have a volt meter you can test both.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/smp7i8fa0f...plug.jpg?raw=1
don't worry about the wire colour, it changes from model to model, just the position is important.
Pin 1 (Green in the image) is 5v+
Pin2 (white in the image) is the signal wire.
Pin 6 (transparent sheath) is earth
Pin 6 is easy to find on all models with this plug as its always the one after the pin socket with the small rubber plug in it. (Pin 5)
Put your ignition on and put your volt probe into pin2 (white in the image) and you should see something between 0.7 and 0.9 volts.
It will be a very similar voltage on both sides.
Put your probe into the back of the pin socket nice and straight as you do not want to short it with the pin next to it.
This is an easy way to prove your EGR's are closed if you don't have a diagnostic scanner.
Is the factory mod for the 3.6 TDV8?Quote:
Originally Posted by Gally
The one Kevin sells at Rover tech is Dyna Fuel. It has always given very good results. from dirty inlet manifolds to to DPF's with low flow.Quote:
Originally Posted by scarry
STP and Lucas also do very good fuel system cleaners.
The emulators are exactly that - Plug and Play.
When disconnecting them, just turn off the ignition, remove the key and wait a minute for everything to shut down and then disconnect.
Reconnect originals and then put the key on. There will be no faults stored and everything is good, well not that good because you have reconnected you EGR's lol
The EGR's don't stand much chance of seizing because the actuator will be behind the closed valve. As long as they are working now I would think they would be ok.
Also after 3 or 4 days of driving it tends to blow out a lot of the buildup in inlet tracts so everything get a bit cleaner.
Hi, yes, I think the TDV8 benefits the most from them. They are also just that little bit easier to do. The plugs are sat right on top of the engine just asking to be disconnected.Quote:
Originally Posted by rar110
No, unfortunately there will unlikely be retrofit kits, although on DISCO4, there appears to be some D4s with AdBlue, as there are teething problems with the system (sensors for AdBlue levels not working correctly, putting vehicle in low power mode).Quote:
Originally Posted by Grentarc
The refilling isn't that often by the looks of it, several tanks full between refills. And looking at where you can get it, Shell has quite a few places that sells AdBlue alongside diesel, and you can also buy containers of the stuff.
Just sounds so much more elegant than a system that is high maintenance by necessity.
I'd certainly be interested in the 3.0 V6 kit when it comes out, as you get modest power increase and lower fuel consumption due to more efficient combustion, as well as removes the hassle of a dirty EGR valve problem most people seem to encounter at some stage.
Gally, can the modules be made smaller, such that it can plug into one box rather than two?
Hi yes, that has been suggested and I am looking into fitting it into one box and having a mounting bracket to mount it under the brake pipes on the drivers side.
I think I initially did the 2 boxes so there was a bit more versatility in where you could mount them.
I have mounted them a few ways.
You can have 1 either side so the passenger side was behind the main battery and the passenger side was in the box.
Or you can have both on one side.
My other way of thinking was if anybody damaged a plug I could send out 1 unit instead of the whole thing.
Depending on what the general consensus is it may be good to produce both types?