The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
I measured my 27mm socket today which has a 36mm OD which is the same as the factory tool. The crank is 35mm from what I can find out so there is a 0.5mm step down which is good. I’ve filed down the end of the socket to make it flatter to the crank to avoid any opportunity for it to skip and catch the lip. I’ve found that a piece of 40mm PVC pipe is around 46mm OD so should be perfect as a driver for the crank seal into place.
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
Just read this thread and thought that I'd add my findings. When I got the crankshaft pulley off I found that the crankshaft seal had popped out fully, hence my catastrophic oil leak! I will use loctite to fix the new seal in place.
I broke a Snapon 3/4 to 1/2 inch adaptor while trying to undo the crankshaft bolt, so tomorrow I will buy a 3/4 drive socket and knuckle bar for this job.
Fit a new crankshaft bolt as the bolt stretches during the last stage of tightening. Be sure to use a torque wrench.
MY12 RRV 4.4 TDV8 AB, +LLAMS, +e-diff, +ACC stop/go. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi
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