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Thread: D4 3.0 TDV6 Front Crank Seal

  1. #11
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Graeme View Post
    The crank was held with the flywjeel locking tool from the timing kit - both times.
    The tightening torque (400nm ?) for the new bolt gets it to yield point then the additional turning (90 deg IIRC) stretches the bolt further. We used a 3/4 drive socket and a 600nm 3/4 drive torque wrench.
    100Nm + 90°, I mark 1 of the bolt points, then in the middle of the second flat around clockwise I Mark the oil pump housing. =90°
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post
    100Nm + 90°, I mark 1 of the bolt points, then in the middle of the second flat around clockwise I Mark the oil pump housing. =90°
    Thanks Justinc, appreciate your feedback. Can’t wait to destroy my 1/2” gear attempting to get it done D4 3.0 TDV6 Front Crank Seal
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster View Post
    Thanks Justinc, appreciate your feedback. Can’t wait to destroy my 1/2” gear attempting to get it done D4 3.0 TDV6 Front Crank Seal
    I use a 1/2" 600mm bar, with a pipe over it. That particular Sidchrome bar has done at least 10 now without incident. 🙂
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  4. #14
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    Wagga Wagga, NSW
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    Quote Originally Posted by Graeme View Post
    I can't remember what we used as a dummy shaft but it could have been a socket, although there's a niggling thought that it was something left over from a fix on my L322. Anyway, it was effectively the same dia as the shaft with a square rather than tapered end and it located in the end of the crankshaft enough to self-centre. Having realised that it was quite difficult to get the seal's long lip started on the square-faced crankshaft, we hunted around for something suitable to slide it onto backwards then slide forwards onto the crankshaft.
    The "tool" was the security wheel nut socket

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grentarc View Post
    The "tool" was the security wheel nut socket
    I measured my 27mm socket today which has a 36mm OD which is the same as the factory tool. The crank is 35mm from what I can find out so there is a 0.5mm step down which is good. I’ve filed down the end of the socket to make it flatter to the crank to avoid any opportunity for it to skip and catch the lip. I’ve found that a piece of 40mm PVC pipe is around 46mm OD so should be perfect as a driver for the crank seal into place.
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  6. #16
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    Just read this thread and thought that I'd add my findings. When I got the crankshaft pulley off I found that the crankshaft seal had popped out fully, hence my catastrophic oil leak! I will use loctite to fix the new seal in place.
    I broke a Snapon 3/4 to 1/2 inch adaptor while trying to undo the crankshaft bolt, so tomorrow I will buy a 3/4 drive socket and knuckle bar for this job.

  7. #17
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    Jan 1970
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    Fit a new crankshaft bolt as the bolt stretches during the last stage of tightening. Be sure to use a torque wrench.
    MY12 RRV 4.4 TDV8 AB, +LLAMS, +e-diff, +ACC stop/go. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Airmech953 View Post
    Just read this thread and thought that I'd add my findings. When I got the crankshaft pulley off I found that the crankshaft seal had popped out fully, hence my catastrophic oil leak! I will use loctite to fix the new seal in place.
    I broke a Snapon 3/4 to 1/2 inch adaptor while trying to undo the crankshaft bolt, so tomorrow I will buy a 3/4 drive socket and knuckle bar for this job.
    I can imagine in this scenario of not replacing the pump that getting a clean and dry surface inside the pump to fit the new seal is very difficult to achieve. Brake cleaner and compressed air.

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