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Thread: D4 3.0 TDV6 Front Crank Seal

  1. #1
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    D4 3.0 TDV6 Front Crank Seal

    I couldn't find an appropriate thread dedicated to this, so I started a new one.
    With the reports of front crank seals popping out on the 3.0 engines, I decided that during the timing belt change (vehicle has just covered 175,000 km) I would change out the front crank seal and loctite it in.
    Before I removed the front crank seal, I did notice I have a "wet spot" under the crank pulley, and upon removal of the front seal, the bottom outside edge of the seal was wet with oil. Looks like my seal was lubricating itself (and the outside of the block) in preparedness to possibly pop out.
    Others may want to see if they can get a look at this area of their engines in case their front seal is weeping too.

  2. #2
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    Hi Grentarc,
    Can I ask how easy it was to get the seal out? Would it be simple enough to do with a pick? I've sprung a leak that I suspect is this seal, but as yet is not catastrophic. I will clean it up and use bearing retainer - a number of forums recommended loctite 638 for it.

    Also, how did you go retightening the crank bolt - did it hold in place with the standard timing belt retaining kit? Any other tips?

    A bit frustrated having to do this given it's already had the timing belt done, but they didn't change the seal.
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  3. #3
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    The seal was easy enough to remove. It was further out than as shown in the workshop manual and oil was found between the housing and the seal. Unfortunately the new seal leaked almost immediately, subsequently found to be due to having been improperly fitted.

    The oil pump housing was later removed to inspect the housing and crankshaft to properly determine the cause for the leak, only to discover that part of the seal's lip had been folded during fitment. The seal is not the usual type, having a wide, thin lip requiring the seal to first be slid onto a dummy shaft of the same diameter which is then held centred on the crankshaft so that the seal can be slid from the dummy shaft onto the crankshaft without any chance of the lip folding over. The dummy shaft needs not to have a rounded edge to prevent the seal lip from closing as it passes across the join onto the crankshaft. A mirror was used to check that the seal's lip had correctly passed over the join before the lip disappeared from view.

    Notwithstanding the workshop manual instructions regarding the depth of the outer edge of the seal, the housing had obviously been redesigned to allow the seal to be driven fully in to rest against a machined lip, with the seal's outer edge well below the housing edge so that the seal was not in danger of working its way out. However a drop or 2 of bearing retainer was applied to the top edge of the seal once the seal was 50% fitted.
    MY12 RRV 4.4 TDV8 AB, +LLAMS, +e-diff, +ACC stop/go. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi

  4. #4
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    Thanks Graeme. I’ve seen the tool recommended for getting the seal onto the crankshaft from the manual and thought (at its price) it was unnecessary however you are now making me think twice. It sounds like you fitted a new oil pump too?
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  5. #5
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    No, the original oil pump was refitted. Our guess was the the 3.0 WSM had re-used earlier 2.7 instructions for an earlier version of the housing.

    I can't remember what we used as a dummy shaft but it could have been a socket, although there's a niggling thought that it was something left over from a fix on my L322. Anyway, it was effectively the same dia as the shaft with a square rather than tapered end and it located in the end of the crankshaft enough to self-centre. Having realised that it was quite difficult to get the seal's long lip started on the square-faced crankshaft, we hunted around for something suitable to slide it onto backwards then slide forwards onto the crankshaft.
    MY12 RRV 4.4 TDV8 AB, +LLAMS, +e-diff, +ACC stop/go. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi

  6. #6
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    I had suspected the same for my crank seal. 185000km. Small weep visible at the front of the block. Timing belts done 16th April 2018. Seal was not changed when the belts were done.

    Finally work timing allowed me to get it back to LR last Friday where they had a good look and determined that the crank seal is not leaking. It was fully cleaned down and is now on a "watch and monitor". At the same visit they've replaced the turbo oil drain pipe and gaskets (see separate post).

    LR told me that unless the seal is showing signs of leakage, they do not replace when the timing belts are done.

    Personally, I'm of the view that given the mileage at which timing belts are changed, and how difficult it is to get to the seal, the crank seal should be replaced at the same time the belts are done. It's a $10 Seal with about $800 Labour to get to it.

  7. #7
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    D4 3.0 TDV6 Front Crank Seal

    Exactly!!!! You’re right there, just change it, but then, how would they justify a return visit at your expense?
    Mine’s definitely leaking from the front however I can’t say exactly where from until a strip down. It’s coming off the front of the engine and spreading across the rest of the underside. I think the rear may also be weeping, but aren’t sure if that’s the blow back from the front leak. It’s amazing how oil spreads!
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  8. #8
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    I should add, and enough oil that it’s all over the tray for a hundred km of travel, so while it’s not catastrophic, it’s beginning to make a mess.
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  9. #9
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    Using a victor Reinz branded seal, it comes with a seal fitment guide sleeve.
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster View Post
    Also, how did you go retightening the crank bolt - did it hold in place with the standard timing belt retaining kit? Any other tips?
    The crank was held with the flywjeel locking tool from the timing kit - both times.
    The tightening torque (400nm ?) for the new bolt gets it to yield point then the additional turning (90 deg IIRC) stretches the bolt further. We used a 3/4 drive socket and a 600nm 3/4 drive torque wrench.
    MY12 RRV 4.4 TDV8 AB, +LLAMS, +e-diff, +ACC stop/go. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi

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