Thread: D4 battery question

Originally Posted by kenl

I seem to remember that those electronic rust control systems for cars were deemed to be totally useless and the suppliers had to by law refund the full purchase price... Am i off track with that?

But anyways I do believe that they are designed to draw current but I don't know how much.

They did have a case against them prove they were worthless.Yet at the last Perth caravan and camping show the manufacturer had a stand.
Andrew

Originally Posted by LandyAndy

They did have a case against them prove they were worthless.Yet at the last Perth caravan and camping show the manufacturer had a stand.
Andrew

Sure wish Lra would refund my money but I will not hold my breath on it

May even get rid of it if I can prove it is the real issue

Richard

It will have been the dealer that fit it not LRA, if you can be bothered it shouldn't be hard to get a refund under the not fit for purpose regulations.

Have a look at this link, https://www.commerce.wa.gov.au/annou...ces-ceci-units, it's West Australian but the same would apply I think?

Originally Posted by kenl

It will have been the dealer that fit it not LRA, if you can be bothered it shouldn't be hard to get a refund under the not fit for purpose regulations.

Have a look at this link, https://www.commerce.wa.gov.au/annou...ces-ceci-units, it's West Australian but the same would apply I think?

I sent a copy of the above to the local dealer and they are receptive.
Not sure I will get all my money back will get some and have it removed for free.

Much better than I thought

Thanks for bringing it up.

Richard

Back to the OP,

Have been watching mine for a while,including some long trips,short trips,etc,and it never goes over 13.9v,maybe a trip to the dealer is the go.

Not my preferred option,but finding an auto electrician that knows these vehicles well,will be like finding rocking horse poo.

If the traxide relay draws 250ma,that is a lot more than the vehicle draws when fully asleep,around 30ma,as per figures on DISC3.CO.UK.I can't find any figures anywhere else.

I notice when i turn off the relay,using a switch in the control earth wire,the main battery lasts a lot longer at a higher voltage.This is probably normal,as less current is being drawn.

I can probably leave the relay off,while not using the aux battery and charge it every month or so with the Cteck.

Ok,what i have been doing is leaving the traxide relay off,so it is drawing no current,and the batteries are isolated.Easy to do with a switch on the small black negative wire from the relay.

Checking the voltage on the starting battery,even with short trips,and the vehicle going nowhere for a week or so at a time, it has never been lower than 12.56V.The auxillary battery sits at the same sort of voltage most of the time as well,or even a bit higher,when it is not being used at all.

I charge them both with a Cteck smart charger,every 4 weeks or so,separately.

If we go on a long trip,i switch the relay back on,so both are being used,and charged.The fridge works off the auxiliary,as does the spotlight while spotting.

The relay is putting a constant load on the batteries.This isn't the fault of the system,or anything,it is just the batteries are not getting fully charged due to the way the vehicle is being used.All i am doing is reducing the constant load on the batteries.

Before doing this i would often see the voltage of the two batteries at 12.2V or lower.

Interesting.
Perhaps Tim could add an Off switch in the cab switch,Im guessing your switch is under the bonnet.
Fortunately mine is getting plenty of use at the moment running Deb up to see her mum,it did run at 14.7V all the way to Perth yesterday with the fridge off.Ran 12.8V/13.8V all the way home with the engel on freeze.
Andrew

Hi Paul and Andrew.

Paul, how you are using your vehicle is a presenting a problem for some people and this type of usage in a resent change in the way people are using their LEISURE TIME vehicles.

Up until about 4 years ago, most Rver's LEISURE TIME vehicles were also their everyday work vehicle as well.

In this type of vehicle use, my isolators, in the way they work, did not and still do not pose any problems as far as draining batteries go.

But the way you use your's is becoming more popular and is something I have addressed by adding the TIME-OUT feature in the new SC80 and has been part of the operating system in the USI-160 for about 3 years, and in the DT90 for about 5 years.

The TIME-OUT feature was specifically developed for the DT90 because this isolator was intended for use in L322 Range Rovers and many of these vehicles are specifically used as LEISURE TIME vehicles.

Paul, the way you are using your SC80 is actually defeating some of it's advantages, and because of your usage, you have no choice. But in your specific situation, you are countering this by your periodical charging of your batteries with a battery charge. Just keep doing what you are doing.

Just a suggestion Paul, you could extend the black earth wire on your SC80, and mount that switch somewhere in your cab. This would make it more convenient and you could make better use of the advantages of the way the SC80 normally works.