Legend! Mine has jammed and has been a little noisier since. I will have to mark this thread so that when mine dies i can fix it for cheap!
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Legend! Mine has jammed and has been a little noisier since. I will have to mark this thread so that when mine dies i can fix it for cheap!
Yes. Already ordered and headed for the spares shelf.
Still going strong. I love opening the door to see if I can hear it. Smooth as. Hahha.
This has inspired me to rebuild my old unit. I managed to get the the lid off a while back but that's as far as I got. Does anyone know what terminals in the plug should be used to hook the 12V up to to test? I'll take photos of the strip down and rebuild and post when I get some time.
What you need to do is remove the terminals from the motor. Some needle nose pliers will be fine. Then make up some short jumper leads out of some hook up wire (or medium speaker wire etc) long enough to get to the POS/NEG of a 12v battery - I used alligator clips on the motor terminals and spade ends into my battery, but I could have used female spade terminals for the motor and that would have hung on better. I used a millwalkee 12v drill battery but you can use any other battery (car) or DC power with at least 1A.Quote:
Originally Posted by Oztourer
With the motor hooked up you need to be able to swap the (swap polarity) positive and negative around to make the motor go in forward or reverse.
Once you unjam the cable and thread which is a cinch once you figure that out as it's pretty tight. (You can also check the forward and reverse to see if it sounds smooth and therefore might not need to replace cogs - personally no having done it I would open the white box also and inspect the teeth closely for damage - any wear or broken teeth it replace it and I'd also clean and put new grease in either way). I took most of the unit apart and put some vice grips with protection around the brass rod and some multi grips around the square end and it came apart with one tweak so then I was able to wind the cable out of the thread - what I did do wind it back on and test the unit back and forth was to swap the polarity on the motor being carefully not to take it to both extremes - so to not jam it and break cogs etc.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/05/201.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/05/202.jpg
The grease I used was the white lithium from super cheap auto. Herschell white marine and outdoor grease. https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/05/203.jpg
I used a heap in the white box and a heap on the slide and other moving parts.
When putting the new cogs in you don't need to put the cir-clip back on to hold the spring and base plate down - it's actually better I believe anyway and so much easier.
I should have taken more pics and a video for the forum users but I just didn't sorry. There is a YouTube (on a Renault unit) video on the pulling apart of the epb unit but he is just experimenting you need to look your unit over at the same time as watching it.
One thing that would have made this whole thing quicker for me was I used the brake bible to pull apart the brakes - I didn't twig at the time that you can just release the cable from the shoes and leave them on (assuming they are in good nic and adjusted properly with the torque wrench etc in the guide.
Oh the other thing was to really take note on the cable routing, including emergency release cable routing and do it with plenty of light as I did it half dark just before dinner and I rushed the pulling of the cables out only mildly looking at the cable routing - it took me ages to re route the brake cables cause I didn't take care in pulling out. It does say to take care in the bible to be fair :)
Happy to answer anything else.
Nice work. Although mines relatively quiet, due to my lack of knowledge on them, I've been meaning to do some maintenance as per bodsys guide.
Have barely used my hand brake this whole trip in case it decides to jam on me.
Biggest thing is dust and rock getting into the drum. Pull the fuse if you really want to make sure but you'll loose cruise control also. Best thing just take the wheels off and drum and blow / wash out. You can do a clean via the adjustment hole but you'll never be sure and I'd say you'd get the wheels off and drum quicker after a few goes of doing it via the hole.Quote:
Originally Posted by Russrobe
Thanks heaps Don. My unit has already been removed as I had a new one put in a year ago. I also saw the Renault YouTube video but didn't think about just putting power straight to the motor terminals!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by DJL9999
G'day Don, and thanks for the info you've provided.
In order to replace gearing, I assume you need to remove the entire EPB Module as indicated in your pics? How difficult is this, ie you mentioned taking care to note the routing of cables. Is there any requirement for diagnostic tool (service mode etc)?
Many thanks
Hi.. Some say that you can un-jam it buy accessing it by taking the spare wheel out but I have a LR tank so that wasn’t an option to even try (although I can’t see it making much difference as it’s tight and pointed away from the area). The diag tool has a cool routine to unjam also.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishoon
To change the gears out you will need to take the unit out.
It’s fairly straight forward to remove with patience and the idea that you will save a thousand or two.
If you can unclip the EPB cables from the shoes without removing them that may save you some time but I tried briefly and from memory I spent longer trying to do that than mucking around with the shoe clips. I used the famous brake bible to adjust mine after fitting and all went smoothly.
One thing to note is in the drums the spring with a retainer wire, spend some time carefully removing the clip to release the EPB cable ends as I just ripped mine off and bent the spring wire this made it difficult to put back as , one I bent them and two I didn’t look at how it came off. This resulted one day in the EPB cable being released from one side of the brake shoes and it jammed - thankfully it didn’t jam that bad (it took one tooth of the cog I think, but it really did prove to me that the new gears were tough) and I whipped the drums off and saw it had slipped out of the shoe - re-attached it and away it went again and has been going well and quiet ever since.
You don’t need the Gap IID tool for this. Although I recommend it for other jobs :)