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Hi RichardQuote:
Originally Posted by wbowner
I'm in the same position as you. I ordered my Traxide system in Feb 2016 and installed it in March. I'm sure I discussed with Tim about how my caravan solar panels would charge up both car batteries through the SC80 when car and van are connected. I was certainly under that impression.
Trevor
The main battery drops to about 12.4 when the door opens and a few seconds later so does the aux. Others here say the USI-160 (which I have) will go down to 12v before disconnecting in shared mode and I'm fine with that, I just wanted to make sure it is working properly. Thanks for all your replies.Quote:
Originally Posted by drivesafe
Hi folks and yes, for the past 25 years, all my isolators have had the ability to allow REVERSE CHARGING and this has been the major difference between my isolators and all the others.
But the reverse charging was only available while the batteries were at or above 12.0v ( or 50% SoC ).
Once the isolator shutdown, the reverse charging was no longer available, unless you started and ran your motor for a minute or so
Over the past few years, more and more people were having problems, where something in the vehicle, discharged the batteries down to 12.0v.
This was usually caused by a fridge being used, but then once the isolator had shutdown, other factors would continue to discharge the cranking battery.
With D4s, this was usually people continually opening the doors and the tailgate, to access the fridge or to get things from the vehicle.
This sorts of use, on many occasions, lead to the cranking battery being discharged even further, and independently of the auxiliary battery.
Quite a few occasions have occurred where the cranking battery was flattened to the point you could not unlock the vehicle.
Now, with the new SC80, simply plug a battery charger or solar regulator to the Anderson plug at the rear of the D4, if fitted, and you can now first charge the auxiliary battery, then the SC80 will turn on and the cranking battery will be charged, allowing entry to the vehicle again.
You could even connect an Anderson plug jumper lead to another vehicle, and charge/jumpstart the D4 that way.
The isolator specifically charges the AUXILIARY battery first, and then turns on to charge the cranking battery.
The isolator has been programmed to work this way so that if the cranking battery is not just flat, but has dropped a cell, the auxiliary battery will still be ?NEAR? fully charged and should still allow you to start the motor.
This operation was devised after some discussions with Blknight, Thanks mate.
Thanks Tim, good to know & an excellent explanation.Quote:
Originally Posted by drivesafe
So rather than replace my less-than-two-year-old SC80 that I'm very happy with, I have done the following to deal with the risk of a very low cranking battery:
- Lead with Ctek-12S to charge cranking battery through 12S (white) plug
- Lead with Ctek-Anderson to charge aux battery through Traxide rear Anderson plug
- Short cable on each positive terminal c/w 75A Anderson powerpole to allow aux battery to start vehicle if required by connecting the two leads together
Note: yet to actually build the last one but idea taken from <this Disco3 thread>
How does that all sound? Obviously the newer SC80 is more straightforward but do I have most scenarios covered?
Cheers,
Scott
Photos: Ctek-12S lead ----------------------------------------- and Anderson powerpole charge cable
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/06/721.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/06/722.jpg
Hi Tim, Is this function something you will be introducing to the USI-160 in the near future?
Hi Mungus and yes, but not for some time.
I was originally intending to phase in the new SC80 on the 01/07/15 but because of the high numbers of orders I have been receiving for the past 18 months, it has taken this long to get the new SC80 up to full production.
I now will start on the upgraded version of the USI-160, but again, with the huge volume of work coming in, at this rate, it will not be till at least some time into the new year before an upgraded USI-160 is near ready.
Tim, could you have a look at my post, just before Mungus.
Thanks,
Scott
That'll mostly work for you...Quote:
Originally Posted by LRD414
however I would suggest that in place of the very short cables for linking the 2 batteries in an emergancy if the main battery is flat you install a more permanant connection and a 100a relay with a remote access momentary, time delay or keyed switch to energise the relay from either the main or AUX battery. The logic being that if the main battery goes flat or drops a cell and the vehicle is locked you cant get into it to open the bonnet to connect the batteries.
In theory the ideal place for the relay is across the traxide sc80's cables to save you running extra cable.
I have been meaning to ask, what is the significance of the LED on the new SC80? Mine flashes 4/5 reds then green steady for a couple of seconds, repeated when the vehicle has been standing for a while.
Hi Milton.
The operation of the LED in the new SC80 has been enhanced.
The old SC80 LED operation was a solid constant GREEN meant the isolator was on, and a flashing GREEN LED meant the isolator had shut down.
The new SC80 has a BiColour LED.
When you first install and power up the system, ( before your start your motor ) if the State of Charge ( SoC ) of the cranking battery is above 12.0v ( 05% SoC ) the SC80 will display a short GREEN flash every 2 seconds.
If the cranking battery is below 12.0v, then the SC80 will display a short RED flash, to indicate your cranking battery is in a low state.
Once you start your motor and the voltage at the cranking battery rises above 13.2v, the SC80 will display 2 short GREEN flashes for 15 seconds and then the SC80 and the LED will glow constantly.
NOTE after one minute, the LED will go to a DULL constant glow. More on this later.
When you turn your motor off, there will be a SURFACE charge in your batteries.
Once the SURFACE charge dissipates, the battery voltage settle and then the SC80 will indicate the SoC of the batteries by giving a number of RED flashes and one long GREEN pulse.
5 RED flashes means the batteries are between 85 and 100% SoC.
4 RED flashes and the batteries are between 70 and 85%
3 RED flashes means the batteries are between 60 and 70%
2 RED flashes indicates the batteries are between 50 and 60% and the SC80 is about to shut down.
Also, if the voltage at the SC80 exceeds 15..1v, the LED will glow a constant RED for 15 seconds.
If the voltage remains above 15.1v for more than 15 seconds, the SC80 shuts down and displays a continuos rapid flashing GREEN > RED > GREEN > RED.
The SC80 will not turn on again, until the voltage drops below 14.75, and it then returns to normal operations.
A Second version of the new SC80 will be available very shortly and this version, the SC80-M will be supplied with a small in-cab module with the BiColour LED in it and a couple of dip switches that will allow you to make a number of charges to the way the SC80 operates.
This is why the GRRED LED goes DULL 60 after the SC80 turns on, so as not to be a distraction at night.