Thread: Traxide battery installation advice

Originally Posted by Tombie

Have you checked?

ABG-25 has User Selectable Cut-Out Voltage Settings and is shipped with the Cut-Out voltage set at 11.6v. but the User can set the ABG-25 settings to 11.6v, 11.8v, 12.0v and 12.3v.

Perhaps it's slipped through at 12.3v

I read that but mine has no selectable options. Do you need to crack the unit open?

Originally Posted by Ben_Vapid

I read that but mine has no selectable options. Do you need to crack the unit open?

Yes it's dip switches on the inside, so would need Tim's guidance.
But also recalling Tim's earlier comment:

Originally Posted by drivesafe

A loose negative connection can cause the unit to Cut-Out at a higher voltage.

This would be the negative eye terminal you installed behind the driver's kick plate.
Could be worth a quick look before getting a new ABG-25.

But if it's loose then your rear Anderson Plug would potentially have issues too because it uses the same earth.

Scott

Ah ok, i'll stand by for instructions before changing the dip switch settings.

I assumed he meant a loose negative on the ABG. I'll pull up the guard and check the eye terminal.

Instructions for the D4 must be a LOT LOT LOT better than for the L322.

Originally Posted by Ben_Vapid

I assumed he meant a loose negative on the ABG.

I'm pretty sure Tim was referring to the earth connection for the SC80. I think it is either a green or brown wire (depending on the year it was bought), and it is meant to go to a body stud.

Originally Posted by jonesy63

I'm pretty sure Tim was referring to the earth connection for the SC80. I think it is either a green or brown wire (depending on the year it was bought), and it is meant to go to a body stud.

Both seem OK. But would that cause 12.4v on one side of the ABG-25 and zero on the other? That doesn't sound right. Also as soon as the cars on again the ABG goes back to normal.

I'll open the ABG up tomorrow and report back on the pin arrangement. Hopefully it's as explainable as that.

Hi Ben, if you don't mind doing some detective work, we can rule the ABG-25 in or out as the problem.

If you can, connect the fridge to the same leads connected to the ABG-25 input. Thats the wires with the In-Line Fuse Holder in them.

Then see if you fridge runs without any problems.

Thanks all for the various replies to my original post here - all very helpful. Now that I am back from my first trip with the new battery I can happily report that it worked really well. Optima yellowtop. Had to play around a little with the location of the nearby factory wiring to squeeze the battery on to the tray. Results were good: Full 60L fridge always frozen down to minus 6. Longest period 40 hours without using the cranking battery. Various other gadgets charged on the way. Frozen food ended up being the least of my problems (see separate post).
As someone who previously could write all of his knowledge on auto electronics on the back of a postage stamp, I can say that installation of an auxiliary battery can be a DIY job along as you are patient and follow the instructions carefully. Don't aim to do it over the weekend before departure. Probably took me 12 hours all told. And, yes, feeding the wire through the firewall is the trickiest part.
I should add that I reckon that no one has yet invented the perfect socket for charging various electrical items in a vehicle. Amazing how often one has to fiddle with the jacks to get a good connection.
Ash