I think that this post will answer a lot of your questions:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-disco...ml#post2505729
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I think that this post will answer a lot of your questions:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-disco...ml#post2505729
I completed this conversion with body on. 2014 territory 2.7 tdv6 into our 07 use disco 3. All pulleys need to be changed. aircon compressor. Alternator and starter motor also need to be changed. The turbo oil pipe needs to be changed. The sump pan needs to be swapped. All injectors and sensors can be left and wiring loom is plug n play. Two knock sensors I just re routed them to manifold bolts as I forgot to swap over after installing engine. Make sure to get a upgraded water housing.
Got rid of the EGR's when mine was changed over (service person fitted some items to fool computer that EGR's still attached, not cheap items but they appear to work very well), motor runs extremely cool now that EGR's are not heating the coolant. Means I can park up in 50+c with aircon going and it stays cool.
I saw somewhere that somebody thinks you need to change your LR air con compressor if you fit the territory motor. NO, you use the LR compressor.
The Territory motor runs 1 less rib on the drive belt and pulleys, so you must change all the front pulleys/belts, tensioners, water pump, PWR steer pump, alternator, over to your Disco parts. Kept the Territory turbo and I think the HP pump also.
There is a list of all parts that need to be changed over somewhere on AULRO (I just cannot find it at present), but covers all you need to change.
vbrab
You have heard of the thermostat right? You do understand how that works yeah? It stays closed until the coolant reaches the temp to open. That means EGR or not the engine will get to the same temperature and maintain it. At best the missing EGR heat load may slow the warm up cycle but once it’s there the engine will keep it there. Engines are designed with an efficient temperature in mind to provide best fuel efficiency and wear control.
Took my 2.7 out at 380K, and fitted the Territory motor, no reason other than K's and I live remote and cannot afford to leave car by side of road.
The old motor went to a new home and without any changes is still happily powering a D3 2 years later.
A mate has his Tdi 2.5 litre diesel in his Defender and last count was over 600k, on original motor, no major repairs ever.
I think regular oil changes and service items are the key to long life...........same for humans probably also.
Try this post: https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-disc...ml#post2505729
I fiund this list of parts which an AULRO member posted up some time ago (thanks to them), seems to cover everything needed to swap over Ford motor to Land Rover
So, the things that need to be swapped from old to new motor are:
Sump
Flexplate and starter motor
Alternator
Air con compressor
Power steering pump
ALL pulleys not included on the items above. This mean crank, water pump, stationery idler, tensioner and fan mount bearing
Serpentine belt tensioner
Fan mount bracket
Timing belt cover
Front water pipe that runs between EGR valves
Bracket at the front to hold the EGR water pipe
Turbo inlet and outlet hoses
Water pipe that runs to left hand side of motor behind turbo pipes
Sensor at the top of the motor near the front, that plugs into grey mesh wiring
Plug for sensor inside the V at the back of the right bank
Entire engine wiring loom
Top front coolant "burp pipe"
Engine mounts
Alternator support bracket
Power steering support bracket (swap or remove threaded rod)
Lower turbo support bracket
Dip stick tube (this does not align correctly with both retaining bolts, but one is sufficient in my opinion)
Turbo oil drain tube
Remove right rear lift ring from supporting bracket
Use the Ford hose clamp where possible unless replacing with worm style, the Ford ones are a better design
Ford Australia part number for the TDV6 oil pump/housing, and price and availability? LandRover part No LR013487
Part number 4R8Z-6600-AF. Priced at $117 locally.