Chops, The Permagrin

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Originally Posted by Chops

Thanks Chris. I was hoping for somewhere a little easier to get at. Seems a bit crowded there already [bighmmm]
Any idea which coloured wire I'm looking for, although I suppose there should only be a couple to choose from anyway.

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Blue/slate LH side i believe, there is also a grommet to the right of the brake booster and you will need to poke a hole thru the insulation on the other side to poke the cable thru. Run the switch wire under the scuttle panel across to the LH side then along the inner guard to the relay.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Chops

Thanks Chris. I was hoping for somewhere a little easier to get at. Seems a bit crowded there already [bighmmm]
Any idea which coloured wire I'm looking for, although I suppose there should only be a couple to choose from anyway.

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I've just put in a relay in my D3 and the grommet was choccas!
So I used a bluetooth one - NO WIRES TO THE CABIN!!!!!!!!!!!
I'm putting Rigid Industries LEDS in, so there is not a lot of current draw, but this coming weekend will see me looking for the trigger wire off high beam.
so far, the install has been a breeze.
Description was E2A9 DC 12V 4CH Channel RF Wireless remote Control Relay Switch 2 Transceiver

Attachment 152094
I got the idea from someone else on the forum.
alan

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Originally Posted by Chops

So I bought myself some driving lights, SuperNova 8.5's. I know, not the Fyrlyt's I wanted, but, they'll do me for the time being.

Question for the brains trust,, where's the best place to break into the loom for the high beam wire? The relay will be over at the LH light near the battery, so somewhere close to that would be best.

Next, has anyone just drilled a hole through the firewall to put wiring through at all,, if so, where do you reckon is the best place to go through? The only "ready made" hole I know of has been used already, so I need another.

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Not sure what lights you have but just a thought, if you have BiXenons you might want to check this out to see if it affects you.

Also :LAZER spots from Prospeed-UK

Been an expensive few months recently with a full major service, new brakes, LCA bushes and a few other bits and pieces etc, and now to top it off, yesterday the battery died.
So, $400 odd later sees a new Delkor S/S AGM purchased, and of course, the Yellow top is now about 8+ years old, so had best do that too I’m told 👍 It has been playing up this last year, hence I only use the fridge when the cars running.
Now to fit them up, head into Ivan so he can reset what needs resetting, and she’ll be perfect again.

I noticed again, I’ve lost all my wheel weights. I’ve had this sorted twice already, next time I’ll ask for “stick ons”. I don’t have any vibrations as such that I can feel, Unlike last time, but I’m sure it can’t be good.

Surprisingly I discovered the main battery only had just over 11v, and my old Yellow Top still had something like 12.5v in it. I did struggle getting the old one out, and the new one in, it’s tight squeeze and my crappy back didn’t help any either.

So now I have one of those third world problems to deal with now, and hoping for a little direction.
In changing out the battery, of course I have now lost all my little electrical “fixes” that had been made. Things like the windows automatically doing the
“one touch up” movement, and the rear window “one touch, down 1 inch-ish” movement.

Can anyone enlighten me as to where I can find this info again please. I’m not even sure what to call these little fixes.

Owners manual mate [emoji1303]

Windows...put them up...let go swithch. Re engage switch up and hold there for 5 or 6 seconds. Do all if needed..start at front.