installing compressor in D4 engine bay

letherm, I am going through the same exercise today. My understanding is power through the white plug is 30A through medium gauge wire. Opposite Lock has suggested while this is sufficient current to run a fridge or trickle charge a camper battery, it may not be sufficient for a larger air compressor. i.e. my air compressor states it has a maximum draw of up to 45A. Thus I am today having a separate Anderson plug installed at both the rear of the vehicle and one inside the engine bay. This maybe some thing to consider. hope it helps :)

Garfield. When you collect it (the D4), check it..
If they have earthed anything to your vehicles battery it is incorrect.

It's amazing how many know absolutely nothing about these vehicles (and others with similar systems) and wiring things incorrectly.

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Originally Posted by letherm

Is it possible to connect it to the towing electric socket via the adapter and will it work?

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Originally Posted by Garfield

.... My understanding is power through the white plug is 30A through medium gauge wire...

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This is a common misconception for the later model years.
Have a look at your fuse box and Owners Manual.
Capacity is 15A since at least MY14
There is an ignition switched and permanent live but both are 15A

See also this thread:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-disco...cket-amps.html

Cheers,
Scott

Thanks Scott for the update on amps ( 15A) in the white plug. Even better reason to get stand alone 50A Anderson plugs fitted.
Thanks Tombie re earthing. i'll double check with the install when I collect the vehicle.

Tombie, just checked with the installer of Anderson plugs and he confirms there is only one earth lead connected to the battery, and this runs directly to the fuse box - all the rest of the earth's to points on the body. Also has installed isolator switch in engine bay, as well as each Anderson plug fused.

Excellent. Sounds like you found a decent installer - please name him for the benefit of others.

Tombie, todays adventures were installing APT Rock Sliders with tread plates, APT compressor guard, Redarc Tow Pro, "Recovery" high rise tow hitch, 50 amp Anderson plugs in engine bay, luggage compartment ( for charging Baintech battery box ) and rear bumper. He has also installed a Narva 12 Volt 140 Amp Voltage Sensitive Relay. Pick the D4 up tomorrow.


The work is being done by OL in Nanawading ( who I have used before ). As they have lost their installer recently, the actual OL manager Torin is doing some of the work himself. I like getting the work done there, as he is happy to discuss the best ways and things to suit "you" in detail ( not pushy or closed minded ), and all jobs done so far have been very neat and tidy ( e.g. cabling in engine bay always in flexible conduit, properly secured etc. ).

That's good.

Watch that VSR though - many D4s don't run at 12.7v for a lot of the time and the Narva VSR may disconnect reducing charging of the second battery...

Torin from OL Nunawading has previously installed UHF Uniden in dash , UHF Antenna, OL steel bulbar, Kingone 12,500lb rope winch, Front Runner drawers, 22" light bar etc. All work has been very neat and tidy. But as he has lost his installer there is a bit of a wait for a booking. I live some distance away but I make the effort to take the vehicle there for a good job. Been to local ARB once and got either "party line" or lip service - honest opinion.

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Originally Posted by Tombie

That's good.

Watch that VSR though - many D4s don't run at 12.7v for a lot of the time and the Narva VSR may disconnect reducing charging of the second battery...

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OK Thanks Tombie - I'll certainly keep a watch on the VSR to see if it auto disconnects when the engine is running. I decided to start off with the Baintech battery box to see how much use I get from it. If I get a lot of use, then I'll look at installing a permanent dual battery system.