URGENT: tailgate problem

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Originally Posted by LRD414

Revised document attached.

Cheers,
Scott

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Thanks Scott, I hope I didn't seem to be picking holes (pardon the pun!) in your excellent manual. I definitely wasn't. It was super-helpful for me.

As an aside too, the only reason I used heatshrink on the clamped section of the cable outer at the bracket was because it was slightly too big for spring clamps the next size down and slightly too small for the clamps I used. It did incidentally provide a bit more grip for the clamps just because it is softer than the cable outer sheath. If the cable outer sheath and the clamps are a better match the heatshrink may not be necessary.

David

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Originally Posted by l00kin4

Thanks Scott, I hope I didn't seem to be picking holes (pardon the pun!) in your excellent manual.

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Not at all, happy to make it better.

Cheers,
Scott

Hi

Haven't added a manual cable pull yet but tonight replaced the electric actuator and the tailgate now opens fine. I'll leave the trim off till I do that mod.

Roverlord is just so fast and efficient! Emailed and checked on the part Thursday. They shipped it that day. It arrived today (Friday) so fitted it tonight. Wife is going to the farm on Monday so she is happy we now have a working tailgate. How wonderful Australia would be if all companies were so prompt and helpful.

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Originally Posted by speleomike

Hi all
A few posts ago I mentioned that I've got the same problem on my D4 tailgate. Last week took off the trim and am currently opening the tailgate by putting my hand in from the inside and pulling the cable. The wife does not seem to want to do that. Anyways had to wait till I got a T30 Torx screwdriver to remove the cable mechanism fully.

Tonight I pulled out the mechanism. It's working but the actuator assembly lacks enthusiasm. When pushing the open button on the upper tailgate, the cable pulls in about 1/4 inch. It really needs to pull in 1/2 inch to open the latch. Haven't yet checked the voltage or current drawn but prob would not be much use as I have no idea what it should be pulling or what voltage drop it would normally cause. So I think I need to replace the actuator assembly (part # 999840).
Mike

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Hello, I opened the panel from inside the car to access the cable to manually pull it open and the cable was bent towards the carpet section which I wasn't expecting. I pulled the cable from the latch towards the actuator and the cable pulled from the latch! Hadn't heard anyone having that issue before.

Now I have the latch closed, and cable removed from the latch and still attached to the actuator. Can someone help me if they know how to get the latch released with NO CABLE?! ??

You might be able to reach up inside the tailgate and operate the latch or pull on the broken bit of the cable unless the end has come off this video will help....https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...mzQDG3irpJU9IA.

Out of interest, do you get any warning that the actuator/cable is about to fail?
My tailgate is releasing, but seems to occasionally click but not fully open.... and I'm wondering if I need to do some preemptive works?

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Originally Posted by Banksy

Out of interest, do you get any warning that the actuator/cable is about to fail?
My tailgate is releasing, but seems to occasionally click but not fully open.... and I'm wondering if I need to do some preemptive works?

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Yes. It is politely telling you that it is about to fail. Replace the mechanism asap and install the emergency release from LRP at the same time.
LRP Upper tailgate kit for Discovery L319 - Land Rover Passion