New D4 - now the expensive bit begins.

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Originally Posted by ATH

Hi Greg.

I'm going through the same thing having just bought a new D4. I'm waiting for Rijidij to complete testing of their new single carrier for the vehicle, as I've had one of theirs on the Defender and it is excellent.

Tow hitch, I'm not paying for something costing 7 - 900 bucks when their website says "check for any casting imperfections etc etc" !!

Are they kidding? Why don't they do that before packing it?

I'll get an adjustable one from Trailer Parts for far less which will do the job except may scrape a bit in the real rough stuff.

I'll send the Cook ahead with a shovel to smooth the path...... :p

Dual Battery system: Call Kevin at Rovertech as they do a new system developed in WA which also takes power from solars.

He's an honest bloke and will let you know what's best I'm sure.

I'm not made of money so I'll gradually get what I need as opposed to what I want. :(

Good luck.

AlanH.

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Check casting refers to the casting on the Vehicle - not on their welded product!

Changing the head of the factory tow hitch with a different height one renders its rating lower... so that doesn't work!

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Originally Posted by GregMilner

Well, it's all a judgement call really.



SWMBO rules out the rooftop tent, for various reasons including not wanting to climb down in the middle of the night for a 'comfort stop'. And no hot shower, kitchen etc etc. (Rule 1: the woman is always right. Rule 2. If the woman is wrong, refer to Rule 1.)



Towing two tons of camper trailer makes it harder to stop when skippy makes a suicide attempt.



D4 tank is small, not a problem if you stick to main drags but towing uses more fuel and putting jerry cans on the roof or the front of the camper doesn't thrill me. I agree the IID tool might be useful though.

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Your call. But I'm sure you know there's less than one Jerry difference btw the D4 & L322fuel tank. The extra tank gives extra range but I question the benefit.

Mud flaps, rock sliders and compressor plate are what I am sorting out atm.

A lot of the stuff you mention is peace of mind as much as anything. Basic mods I would suggest are
- AT tyres (I have the 19" Hankooks which are going great).
- Rods or LLAMS.
- Mudflaps
- Cargo barrier
- Compressor guard.
- Dual battery etc.

I'll be doing some Beadell roads this year in this configuration.

I have the OEM side steps which provide some stone protection but certainly are not sliders. You still need front mud flaps as the front wheels do a magnificent job of flicking mud up to neatly land on the step under the front doors....

Cjc has the mud flaps we need if you search mud flaps you will find the thread. Even sand manages to stick to the side of mine...

I was going to go without rock sliders for our 6 week trip in April. Reasons i ordered them were.
A. To easily get out of the car without constantly dropping to normal height to make it easier on compressor.

B. For protection during muddy river crossings.

C. For the exhaust jack i bought which could slip out and crush unprotected sills.

I'd put them on the list but last for touring and first if you plan on attacking hard tracks. I

"Check casting refers to the casting on the Vehicle - not on their welded product!"
The website doesn't read like that to me so I'll stick with my interpretation thnx. ;)
Does it also come in a box made in Oz?
AlanH.

One reason I'm a bit keen on getting the RWC is to avoid having to empty the back of the car when having to change out a blown tyre. Having done that a couple of times in the old Sport on the GRR, with not one but three road trains roaring past and covering everything including us in a thick layer of red dust, I don't want to repeat the experience if possible.
I suppose I could carry the spares on top of the the CT, which is fine except for when you're not towing it, on a day trip somewhere.

Pretty sure my mate around the corner has overcome access to the winch by installing a 3/8? uni joint and extension so that it sits close to the rear door.

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Originally Posted by ATH

"Check casting refers to the casting on the Vehicle - not on their welded product!"
The website doesn't read like that to me so I'll stick with my interpretation thnx.

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Alan, your website interpretation is of course your choice but it's not matched by reality.

Tombie is speaking as an owner of the product, as am I.
I have installed mine and my fathers, plus two friends have the same product.
In all of these cases (at least) the casting imperfections are on the vehicle recovery eye only.
Removal of high points by filing or dremmel provides a sufficiently smooth surface for installation of the poly bush that goes in the recovery eye.
The Mitch Hitch is welded (not cast).

Scott