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Thread: New D4 - now the expensive bit begins.

  1. #71
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    I'd be putting the techonsha on gumtree & get a tow pro elite - I had a P3 before and the tow pro is so much better & less intrusive

  2. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by LandyAndy View Post
    I made a rear cargo unit with slider for my D4,used it once.I removed the rear seats,and found that my 80lt engel sits nicely across the rear,no need for a slide just open the door top.Not ideal,but it works.

    Andrew
    Yeah Andy I'm with you on that one. If there's one thing I know I can save money on and atleast put to the bottom of the list it's drawers and a fridge slide... One of the main reasons I wanted the D4 was for better access.

    I managed to fit everything in here over xmas, for 5 days without using any other part of the car accept the roof rack. When we go touring without the giant fluffy one, everything on top of here will be spread across the cabin leaving me with easy access to more common used items in the small case and full access to the fridge and 40l of water.

    Drawers are handy for ease, but there's no stretch to access a fridge at normal height so they go to the bottom of the list for me, allowing the money to be spent on things like sliders =D

  3. #73
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    And a compressor guard

  4. #74
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    Feb 2004
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    Williams West Aust
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    Quote Originally Posted by Meken View Post
    I'd be putting the techonsha on gumtree & get a tow pro elite - I had a P3 before and the tow pro is so much better & less intrusive
    X2.
    I had a P3 in the D2.Have the Tow Pro in the D4,towing the same heavy camper trailer with both vehicles the Tow Pro is much more responsive.
    Andrew
    DISCOVERY IS TO BE DISOWNED
    Midlife Crisis.Im going to get stuck into mine early and ENJOY it.
    Snow White MY14 TDV6 D4
    Alotta Fagina MY14 CAT 12M Motor Grader
    2003 Stacer 525 Sea Master Sport
    I made the 1 millionth AULRO post

  5. #75
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    Where did you buy that fish Andrew?
    AlanH.

  6. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trngia View Post
    I have a Mitch hitch fitted towing my Drifta DOT6 trailer and would not go back to the original hitch. My trailer would never ride level and even with a raised hitch it was still a pain trying to get the jockey wheel down without going into off road suspension height. The Mitch hitch just works so well in comparison and access to the spare wheel is a bonus. Even when not off road it came in useful 2 days ago trying to get into a small town service station with a big kerb and steep down. Would have certainly dragged the original hitch if I hadn't had the Mitch hitch.

    If I were to buy a D4 which is my likely next upgrade I would go for.
    - Mitch hitch
    - electric brake controller
    - roof rack platform or like I have now roof box and cage for the Oztent.
    - carry extra fuel on the trailer so no long range tank or add gravity fed in cargo area for long trips if required.
    - no kamar bar or wheel on the back
    - probably no bull bar although would consider it
    - discreet winch if no bull bar
    - llams I have found useful but I would consider GOE rods as an alternative.
    - Drifta Drawer system and drop down fridge slide with socket extension for access to spare wheel winch. Would consider a water tank in the back of the drawers if I didn't have the trailer
    - secondary battery. I currently have one in the cargo area but uses up valuable space.
    - compressor protection plate
    - I currently have rock sliders and they have come in useful a couple of times but would think seriously about what I was doing before adding this extra weight on. Not needed for most things. Does make a handy step up for sorting out stuff in the roof box though.
    - decent AT LT tyres
    - half size cargo barrier
    - have a compressor under the bonnet BT would probably add into the drawer system or even just have a decent portable one with an Anderson Connector on etc.


    I agree.
    L322 tdv8 poverty pack - wow
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 49-107 (probably selling) turbo, p/steer, RFSV front axle/trutrack, HF, gullwing windows, double jerrys etc.
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 48-699 another project
    Track Trailer ARN 200-117
    REMLR # 137

  7. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by ATH View Post
    Where did you buy that fish Andrew?
    AlanH.
    Out of the water mate,Pelican Point in Carnarvon,keep going past the mile jetty until the end,nice place to fish.
    Andrew
    DISCOVERY IS TO BE DISOWNED
    Midlife Crisis.Im going to get stuck into mine early and ENJOY it.
    Snow White MY14 TDV6 D4
    Alotta Fagina MY14 CAT 12M Motor Grader
    2003 Stacer 525 Sea Master Sport
    I made the 1 millionth AULRO post

  8. #78
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    The Tekonsha I already have seems to have worked fine for several years for what we do, so I'll keep it for the time being and save a few hundred for other things.

  9. #79
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    New D4 - now the expensive bit begins.

    I'd buy
    - GOEs, because it opens up 18s,
    - 18" tyres, probably 265/60s 697s or anything with at least 114 load rating,
    - compressor guard, no brainer on a D4,
    - IIDTOOL,
    - Dual battery controller, drive safe or redarc,
    - towpro,
    - ARB compressor to fit under the bonnet,
    - remap to reduce effect of EGR,
    - mitchitch,
    - led lighting on the top tailgate,
    - Scotts battery voltage monitor,
    - drifta pull out kitchen if going without camper,
    - drifta fridge cabinet,
    - D4 must have rear diff lock,
    - pioneer roof rack for spare tyre, Jerry holder and oztent if not taking camper.

    THATS IT.

    No bullbar as don't drive early or late. And only ever hit a roo after dark.

    No extra tank as I did the Simpson with 60lt Army 110 stock fuel tank ok with jerrys. I don't want to carry the extraordinary capacity for most of my driving. Many like to. I'm happy to buy fuel at higher prices in remote communities - it's still cheaper than a extra fuel tank.

    I don't think there's any doubt that 18" tyres are better than 19s or 20s in an outback situation. You get more cushioning and less stress on suspension than on a 19 or 20 tyre. And you get a stronger range of tyre. And If you destroy a 265/60/18, you are more likely to find a replacement than in a 19" or 20" tyre.

    But it depends on what you're doing and your needs. The above are my wish list.
    L322 tdv8 poverty pack - wow
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 49-107 (probably selling) turbo, p/steer, RFSV front axle/trutrack, HF, gullwing windows, double jerrys etc.
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 48-699 another project
    Track Trailer ARN 200-117
    REMLR # 137

  10. #80
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Williams West Aust
    Posts
    20,998
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    Quote Originally Posted by GregMilner View Post
    The Tekonsha I already have seems to have worked fine for several years for what we do, so I'll keep it for the time being and save a few hundred for other things.
    Greg,before it gets installed have a good read of the D4 electric trailer brake instal in the stickies at the top.Very important how its wired,you probably are up to speed having a newish FFR,doesnt hurt pointing it out.
    ENJOY
    Andrew
    DISCOVERY IS TO BE DISOWNED
    Midlife Crisis.Im going to get stuck into mine early and ENJOY it.
    Snow White MY14 TDV6 D4
    Alotta Fagina MY14 CAT 12M Motor Grader
    2003 Stacer 525 Sea Master Sport
    I made the 1 millionth AULRO post

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