New D4 - now the expensive bit begins.

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Originally Posted by rar110

- Scotts battery voltage monitor.

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What's that/how is it different to a dual battery setup?

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Originally Posted by Shakey

What's that/how is it different to a dual battery setup?

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It's just a digital display to see how your voltage in your cranking and second battery are going in terms of voltage levels. Drivesafe's system is a series of light flashes rather than a digital display to see how the 2nd battery voltage is going. It's a nice to have when you're watching this as your fridge is getting slower and the kids keep opening car doors (the later drawing on the cranking battery).

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Originally Posted by rar110

It's just a digital display to see how your voltage in your cranking and second battery are going in terms of voltage levels.

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It's very simple but I find it quite useful.
Voltage can be read without waking up the vehicle so provides a more accurate indication of SoC.
Key point being that it can be read from outside.
The switch allows checking of either battery and turning it off when not away on trips.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/02/560.jpg

The little trim panel made it an easy mod to do and also cheap to remove if ever required by replacing just that piece.

Cheers,
Scott

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Originally Posted by Meken

I'd be putting the techonsha on gumtree & get a tow pro elite - I had a P3 before and the tow pro is so much better & less intrusive

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I second that. Tow Pro Elite is so easy to use, auto calibrating etc.

Andrew I sure will, and pointing it out to the guys at Autospark.

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Originally Posted by LRD414

Alan, your website interpretation is of course your choice but it's not matched by reality.



Tombie is speaking as an owner of the product, as am I.

I have installed mine and my fathers, plus two friends have the same product.

In all of these cases (at least) the casting imperfections are on the vehicle recovery eye only.

Removal of high points by filing or dremmel provides a sufficiently smooth surface for installation of the poly bush that goes in the recovery eye.

The Mitch Hitch is welded (not cast).



Scott

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You can't go past Mitch Hitch. I bought the adjustable before finding out about Mitch Hitch, I rectified that mistake quick smart.

The Mitch Hitch is fantastic.

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Originally Posted by rar110

I'd buy
- GOEs, because it opens up 18s,
- 18" tyres, probably 265/60s 697s or anything with at least 114 load rating,
- compressor guard, no brainer on a D4,
- IIDTOOL,
- Dual battery controller, drive safe or redarc,
- towpro,
- ARB compressor to fit under the bonnet,
- remap to reduce effect of EGR,
- mitchitch,
- led lighting on the top tailgate,
- Scotts battery voltage monitor,
- drifta pull out kitchen if going without camper,
- drifta fridge cabinet,
- D4 must have rear diff lock,
- pioneer roof rack for spare tyre, Jerry holder and oztent if not taking camper.

THATS IT.

No bullbar as don't drive early or late. And only ever hit a roo after dark.

No extra tank as I did the Simpson with 60lt Army 110 stock fuel tank ok with jerrys. I don't want to carry the extraordinary capacity for most of my driving. Many like to. I'm happy to buy fuel at higher prices in remote communities - it's still cheaper than a extra fuel tank.

I don't think there's any doubt that 18" tyres are better than 19s or 20s in an outback situation. You get more cushioning and less stress on suspension than on a 19 or 20 tyre. And you get a stronger range of tyre. And If you destroy a 265/60/18, you are more likely to find a replacement than in a 19" or 20" tyre.

But it depends on what you're doing and your needs. The above are my wish list.

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You'll find that the D4 will use more fuel than your 110 in sand and offroad for that matter, especially when loaded, so you'll still need those jerries if you're doing anything similar to the simpson.

We did Simpson last year, Birdsville to Poppel along Hay River Track to Jervois Station.
I have std tank, plus 3 Jerry cans, used 2 of them.
Also I was towing a trailer.
Like many others I do one long desert trip per year and don't want a long range tank and RWC.
This year we are planning to travel to Alice, turn left and head to Marble Bar, drop down south a bit and back into S.A. visit APY lands, and home, over about 4 weeks.
I'm contemplating a 50L BOAB tank inside,:o, yes ventilation, plus a few Jerry cans. Mr Funnel will be handy.
Research and deep contemplation is ongoing.

Surprised nobody else seems to think it's a big deal having the spare on the rear to prevent destroying it. I'm guessing most of you are running 265 60s and not 285s. Exponentially more important if you only plan on taking a 2nd spare tyre carcase because good luck changing a 18" tyre without a tyre fitting machine.

Agree entirely. In my old RRS I was always a bit worried about the spare slung under the car on rough roads, although I've never heard of anyone destroying one because of that.
But having to empty the back of the car to lower it down, change a wheel and put the flat one back up in its pozzie and load the car up again, on a stinking hot day somewhere on the GRR with road trains going past every ten minutes - as happened a few years ago - kind of put me off the whole experience. Thus my plan to put a RWC on the new D4. (When it finally arrives - now pushed out to the first week of March.)