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Oil flushed and Changed. Old oil was in good condition which had me thinking my issue might not be solved. Gear Changes Saturday and Sunday worked flawlessly. Today was not the same story. A&B automatics offered about 5.5k for a reconditioned with warranty. Ritta is also getting me some prices.
Question of law of diminishing returns is crossing my mind.
Is that with a new torque converter and including fitment with the correct oil and your steel pan?Quote:
Originally Posted by NavyDiver
I would have to take it to them to firm up details. I would want to keep my pan as paying for a 3rd one would be silly. I clearly was silly for not keeping the pan of my first box change. DohQuote:
Originally Posted by winaje
Not sure if the new (two day old) oil in my box could be used with out people getting fussy about warranty as well.
Looks like my car is worth about 10k or so. Not one for sale on car sales... had close to my 350,000+km and several got down to the 10 ish mark.
At a guess parts ( my toys) might be worth more than the whole car! Bull bar. Roof rack, long range tank, rock sliders, spare set of 17 inch rims with some meaty MT, LLAMS and a bit more of the it might be of interest. Changed the radiator with the gear box last time as well. None of the D3s for sale have any or many of the extra bits on mine.
I have done so much to it to keep it in shape for off road fun but now have to ask myself is it worth it.
My permagrin is grimacing
c'est la vie
cost of repairs vs cost of a newer vehcile. You can fund a lot of repairs and keep the vehcile you like and know.
I have a 2007 D3 and fitted a newish donk 18 months ago. I have 225,000 on the clock now, about 25,000 on the new ish engine. At same stage the ZF will go "opps well that's me for the day! and I will have to fork out for a fully recon transmission.
I'm fitting new airstruts over Christmas break and love my D3 so will keep it running as long as I can. Body and interior are still very good.
Fix the trans / get a fully recon one and get that permagrin going again. You know you want to! [biggrin]
I'm with you Peter. Much cheaper to repair than go through all that depreciation and cost of add on parts etc! I have been in the same boat with a lot of expensive repairs after about 200,000km but the car is worth nothing (lots and lots of off road, gravel and rock damage and pin stripes) so it is much cheaper to pay to keep it reliable. I get some repairs done preemptively, which costs more but should keep the car going on remote trips.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterOZ
My gearbox is fully drained around once every 18 months or usually before the next trip and that is going very well so far. I am told by my auto trans expert that they don't suddenly fail and give plenty of warning of impending doom so I am hoping that a gearbox failure won't leave me stranded where I can't get reasonable flat bed access to get it repaired.
New box is close to 15k- the current one was new and half that price- Ouch. Inflation plus none in Australia. If I change it would be with the nice gent at the ZF place in Dandenong
Did find a few fault codes tonight, The dreaded Brake switch and a code suggesting foot on brake and accelerator at the same time- Wasn't me so I assume it related to the faulty switch.
Brake light globes is out! The rotten incandescent globes formally in my brake lights used to cause me hell before I put LED in. One LED out which again give me a possibility.
One other interesting note to the gear change I found, It does change at 4.5k revs. When every thing is working and driving in my usual relaxed style changes are at about 2-2.5k revs.
Brake light replacement ordered. New brake switch in next week before I cane my permagin.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BobD
mate,
think mine is still worth a few bob, no pun [biggrin][bigwhistle]
I can't afford a new one or even a low km D4 though do know of one with 70,000 coming on the market later this year. Still far too much for my pocket. Sounds like you have some good trips, I'm, not so adventurous these days.
Im in the SEQLRD group and off to Double Island point on saturday so hope it behaves itself.
cheers
P
was getting the HDC faults and going into limp mode, suspencted the brake light switch so swapped it out. I did find some threads while googling suggesting that the standard incandescent globes are actually not a standard globe as fitted to our Discos but have a higher specced filiment. I had put SCA ion a couple of times and it does not like them at all, they blow quite quickly. Pulsing of the brake cct is the reason from what I can figure out.Quote:
Originally Posted by NavyDiver
Would be nice to know the part number for the correct globes as not even local dealer knows! What LED globes are you using? Straight swap out or did you have to do mods to trick the pulse sensor?
cheers
P
It is a straight swap for brake, tail and reversing lights. I will double check my Blinkers. I did not use any thing else with mine and everything worked perfectly and has for five years. HDC faults and going into limp mode over a light globe is a PITA. One of a few items I really do not like but it is easily avoidable with LED globes.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterOZ
Rich is the Guru. My thread from 5 years ago which fixed multiple repeated faults in my Disco The faults then did not include gear box but give the wide variety of faults induced by a blown brake light globe or the switch I will replace mine again to see.
Going to Bright lights here this morning. I will post part numbers. Some of the links in the 5 year old thread show parts no longer available. The LED globes were the best change I made to mine bar none. Noted a tonne on ebay but as pointed out at the end of the old thread some types are not suitable.
That would be good to get those P/Ns mate, thank you. Ive decided not to do the Double Island Point trip which is actually tomorrow as thought of Easter traffic out of Brisbane plus a zillion bogans in hiluxes everywhere does not appeal.Quote:
Originally Posted by NavyDiver
I'll stay home and build model RC planes instead.
cheers
P