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Thread: D4 (3.0) Timing Belt

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonW View Post
    Yep the Rear Exhaust Accessory Drive belt for the HP fuel pump.
    I tell you what. I'm ultra sceptical about dealers and doing a complete job of this. How many mechanics just say F it and don't do the rear belt (charge you of course). That's my biggest worry. When the dealer did mine, did they do the job properly?

    I wonder how many D4s will live to have two timing belt changes?
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  2. #12
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    Jeffster, reading the thread is misleading. I did not do the rear belt as could not even see the housing, let alone the belt. Additionally, if that belt fails then the engine will splutter to a stop whereas the timing belt will end with a crunch and a busted engine.

    I reckon you are right though. My timing belt besides being dirty had no cracks and is in good condition. As is the serpentine belt so I kept both for spares.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by DazzaTD5 View Post
    Thats the slightly harder bit, I'm onto the second one now, yes a AULRO member here did the first one with body on and noted it was prolly going to be quicker with the body off. I looked at the first one and very quickly knocked the idea on the head, I spent more time prating around with trying to work it correctly, than what it takes to remove a body.

    Like I've said in other posts, what method a mechanic/repairer uses to do a job isnt overly important, as in if they find a particular method easier to do, then its likely they are going to do the job better.

    Regards
    Daz
    Yeah, did mine (3.0) with the body on - the fact it needs to be timed is part of the pain, the other part is there is basically no room in there. It is possible, but I think it was 17 hours (so 34 man hours as there were two of us) to actually get the whole job done - the timing belt was the easy part, the HPFP belt was ridiculous

  4. #14
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    Doing the fuel pump belt is a fair pain, but can be done body on. Lots of wiring, hoses, etc to move to reach back there. You need a good torch and a mirror, but it isn't too much harder than a 2.7l.

  5. #15
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    What do you do about the pipe that drops down behind and close to the belt cover making it very difficult to remove and replace the cover? From memory the pipe is bolted lower down in a spot that's not accessible.
    MY12 RRV 4.4 TDV8 AB, +LLAMS, +e-diff, +ACC stop/go. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi

  6. #16
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    I must have unbolted it. I know the pipe you mean and I definitely moved it.

  7. #17
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    How long and how hard is it to remove a D3-4 body.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by PAT303 View Post
    How long and how hard is it to remove a D3-4 body.

    With no accessories.... 2 hrs flat.

    Regards
    Daz
    Regards
    Daz


  9. #19
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    Wow. D4 (3.0) Timing Belt
    L322 tdv8 poverty pack - wow
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 49-107 (probably selling) turbo, p/steer, RFSV front axle/trutrack, HF, gullwing windows, double jerrys etc.
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 48-699 another project
    Track Trailer ARN 200-117
    REMLR # 137

  10. #20
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    ...providing the lifting equipment is available and the person doing the removal is experienced at the task.
    MY12 RRV 4.4 TDV8 AB, +LLAMS, +e-diff, +ACC stop/go. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi

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