Page 5 of 5 FirstFirst ... 345
Results 41 to 45 of 45

Thread: D4 (3.0) Timing Belt

  1. #41
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Kingston, Tassie, OZ.
    Posts
    13,728
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Why remove the HPFP if only doing a belt?? There is absolutely no need to rrmove the body to replace fuel pump belts in any model wih the 2.7 or 3.0 engines...
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  2. #42
    josh.huber Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by speleomike View Post
    Hi



    They just do Landrovers & Jeeps. Picked up my car today. Jobs all done. Not real happy at the delay but its finished and they didn't charge for the extra time. They have previously done this with body off as usually it's been a turbo replacement as well. Mine didn't need a turbo replacement and they tried it with body on. They have just one mechanic that has small enough hands but started the job when he was away. I had a look at some pics the mechanic had of the tube that caused them angst. It was a PCV pipe, that needed to come off to get the HPFP off, and they had trouble undoing the bracket that held that on that PCV as its so close to the firewall.

    Jill and I looked at YouTube video last night at the procedure for the timing belt replacement. Heck, it's so complex. I'd forget what bits go back where and how! Anyone on this forum that does this themselves has my admiration.

    Thanks
    Mike
    Hey Mike,

    Hope the bill wasn't too exxy then, I left my fuel pump in place. Bought a timing set it eBay and followed the LR manual, the main thing you need is something to learn your chest on when reaching in the hole. The good thing is you got your car back, at the price you were expecting.

  3. #43
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    NSW SW Slopes
    Posts
    11,475
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post
    Why remove the HPFP if only doing a belt?? There is absolutely no need to rrmove the body to replace fuel pump belts in any model wih the 2.7 or 3.0 engines...
    I suspect it was the belt cover rather than the pump itself. That pipe running down the back of the cover that is bolted too far down to be accessible and as far as I could see impossible to access from below made the task of refitting the cover very time-consuming for me, fiddling around for a couple of hours until it happened to go into place. I suspect that with experience it could be refitted more readily. Removing the cover was much easier - just pull hard to distort the cover as required.
    MY12 RRV 4.4 TDV8 AB, +LLAMS, +e-diff, +ACC stop/go. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi

  4. #44
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Kingston, Tassie, OZ.
    Posts
    13,728
    Total Downloaded
    0
    That pipe is easily undone, there is a bolt on the lower rear of the the passenger side head. After the battery tray etc is removed, Undo that and it's no issue.
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  5. #45
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    South Yundreup,WA.
    Posts
    7,467
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post
    That pipe is easily undone, there is a bolt on the lower rear of the the passenger side head. After the battery tray etc is removed, Undo that and it's no issue.
    JC & Dazza, Just a quick resurrection of this post with the 2.7, if there is a rear camshaft seal leak, is it body off to replace? I am chasing a leaks somewhere in the rear of the motor that is leaking onto the exhaust mesh area behind the turbo. Now I did replace the turbo feed double washer and fixed that leak, but there is one somewhere else, Not convinced it is the oil cooler, but will try and get a snake camera in there again to view. A little disconcerting when you have oil smoke coming out from under the guard. Is there any easy way to actually identify if it is a rear cam seal? Cant believe how difficult it is to see or access anything at the rear of the engine in these things.
    Cheers
    Craig
    2011 Discovery 4 TDV6
    2009 DRZ400E Suzuki
    1956 & 1961 P4 Rover (project)
    1976 SS Torana (project - all cash donations or parts accepted)
    2003 WK Holden Statesman
    Departed
    2000 Defender Extreme: Shrek (but only to son)
    84 RR (Gone) 97 Tdi Disco (Gone)
    98 Ducati 900SS Gone & Missed

    Facta Non Verba

Page 5 of 5 FirstFirst ... 345

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!