Roof Bars - D3

Hi Jeepster,

I should have asked exactly what you wanted to do. The important thing is that the front legs are the longer 80mm(?) high ones - RLT506. I think notionally they are a track mount leg but seems they will work with the same feet as the other rear legs and a single longer screw through to the nutsert in the roof.

Those are not in that parts list I posted (to clarify the parts required to mount the legs to the tracks, which come with the legs).

The (shorter) RLCP legs in that list are for the rear 2 sets mounted to the track.

Hope that helps.

David

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by l00kin4

Hi Jeepster,

I should have asked exactly what you wanted to do. The important thing is that the front legs are the longer 80mm(?) high ones - RLT506. I think notionally they are a track mount leg but seems they will work with the same feet as the other rear legs and a single longer screw through to the nutsert in the roof.

Those are not in that parts list I posted (to clarify the parts required to mount the legs to the tracks, which come with the legs).

The (shorter) RLCP legs in that list are for the rear 2 sets mounted to the track.

Hope that helps.

David

---

I hope to attack this on the weekend. The 2 feet I got for the front are certainly higher than the ones I have for the rear rails, but they might still need a spacer to lift the bar a few cm.
Will see what I discover during the process.

Ooh, it looks like most of the pictures have been restored in the original thread! Well done moderators!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by eddomak

Ooh, it looks like most of the pictures have been restored in the original thread! Well done moderators!

---

That will certainly make things easier!

Today was time to do something useful after 6 weeks of being careful how/where I walked. I figured it would all involve doing stuff standing up, rather than crawling around under the Disco.
As I said earlier, I scored 2 Vortex bars off Gumtree, and last weekend I went to Autobahns 25% off sale and got another bar, and 2 mounts.
First job was to remove the covers for the rails from the roof, and shorten them.
Fairly easy job with a trim removal tool, although one plug decided to break. If this happens, get something to grip it, and just unscrew it out of the captive nut

Attachment 125285.Attachment 125284Attachment 125286Attachment 125283
When the track comes out, expect a heap of crap under it - mine had a fair bit of Sydney in the tracks under the covers.
Attachment 125287Attachment 125288
It was mostly dry, so I scraped it out, and used a brush to clean it up
Attachment 125289
Once cleaned out, it was time to cut the tracks so the front section could be replaced back onto the roof. Remember measure, measure, measure, and then cut! You end up cutting 153cm from the back end of the track cover. It is light aluminum and a hacksaw is just fine.
Attachment 125290
Now it's time to fit the rails.
There are plastic end caps marked front and rear, left and right. Push them into the ends of the rail, and when you put it over the tracks in the roof, make sure it is flat on the outside and the inside. Mine took a little jiggling, but it was soon sorted. I had to buy the fixings as they didn't come with my rails. There are 3 security allen screws on each side, and according to Rhino, you are supposed to drill a hole at the back and put a rivet in. That did not happen!!! I'll see how it goes, but I won't be carrying any major weight on my racks, so I don't see it as being necessary.
Attachment 125291Attachment 125292

More to come soon

Attachment 125307
Both rails are the same to fit. There was nothing fiddly about this part at all.

Attachment 125308
These are the center and rear fittings with the racks fitted
This is the front leg that I used. Each one needs an M6x50mm bolt - which is 10mm longer than the one supplied, and it just screws straight into the captive nut that had one of the plastic plugs in it.

Attachment 125309Attachment 125310

alas, it does not line up first time! The difference was 40mm too low.

Attachment 125311

Which was solved by adding some spacers - 4 in fact, to bring it up to the right height

Attachment 125312Attachment 125313

And now the completed job.
Attachment 125314Attachment 125315Attachment 125316

Am now going to do a wind test to the butcher while I get some steak for a BBQ - will post the appropriate part details after dinner tonite.
Hope this helps answer some of the questions about what works, what doesn't, and how it looks.

Did a wind /noise test today, and there is a new sound between 60 and 80kpm, but it is not annoying. Over 80kph, it goes away.
I'll call it a success.

As has been mentioned by others, there are various part numbers for this combination.
The bits I used were:
RTS502 Rhino Tracks
RLT500 Track legs on the front.
RTLF Track legs on the rear.
I used 4 x 10mm spacers to lift the front bar, and you will need about an M6x75 bolt to go through them all - sorry I forgot to measure this.
Lots of instructions on the Rhino rack website but here are the rail instructions
Attachment 125346

With all the other posts, this might all help to make someones job easier.

Hi Guys.

I am thinking of Vortex bars with the RCL legs. Does anybody use locking straps to hold Oztent securely? I believe their are accessories that fit in the channel.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Aussie Jeepster

Did a wind /noise test today, and there is a new sound between 60 and 80kpm, but it is not annoying. Over 80kph, it goes away.
I'll call it a success.

As has been mentioned by others, there are various part numbers for this combination.
The bits I used were:
RTS502 Rhino Tracks
RLT500 Track legs on the front.
RTLF Track legs on the rear.
I used 4 x 10mm spacers to lift the front bar, and you will need about an M6x75 bolt to go through them all - sorry I forgot to measure this.
Lots of instructions on the Rhino rack website but here are the rail instructions
Attachment 125346

With all the other posts, this might all help to make someones job easier.

---

Good write up Jeepster. Just one thing to add to this - if you use a taller version of the RLT leg (RLT506, the 80mm version Rhino RLT506 Track Mount Legs 80mm (pr) - Roof Rack World) on the front, you'll need less spacers...

David

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jliquorish

Hi Guys.

I am thinking of Vortex bars with the RCL legs. Does anybody use locking straps to hold Oztent securely? I believe their are accessories that fit in the channel.

---

I use ratchet straps to hold my (usually 2, sometimes 1) Oztents to my platform with eye bolts like these: Rhino Roof Rack Eye Bolt Mount Spots Vortex Bar S604 Tie Down | eBay which works well.

but Rhino also have this option: Vortex Ratchet Grab 2m - #SRG | Rhino-Rack which also uses an eyebolt at the other end.

Attachment 131466

Not sure if it matters in your case but these would use up a bit more of the width of the bar than the eyebolt / ratchet strap option...

(Just for reference in the thread, the ones I use on the platform have a different nut: Eye Bolt Hold Down Kit x4 Rhino Pioneer Platform Rack 316 Stainless M8 Eyebolt | eBay)

David