Thread: What D3 to buy?

Originally Posted by veebs

Is it a 5 Seater? Didn't think the SE models were available in 5 seats, and it's hard to tell, but I think I see seat belts in the back? Also, I thought 5 seat models were 60/40 split in the second row, which this doesn't look to be.

When I rang them I asked about that, so they checked and it is in fact a 7 seater. No rear aircon or C pillar vents though.

Story is that it was a demonstrator - which may be most of the mileage - which was bought as a present but the recipient thought that it was too large to drive, so it basically sat in the garage for 10 years.

Originally Posted by Arapiles

Both cars I've been looking at (a D3 and a D4) have triple sun-roofs - one dealer said I couldn't take that car off-road because the sun-roofs would shatter due to body flex. I've searched on this site, and googled generally, and I can't see much discussion of that happening. And, given that the D3 and D4 are both monocoque, I wouldn't've thought that there would be much flex anyway - they're not Unimogs, where the ladder frame chassis is (supposedly) designed to twist.

D3's and 4's do flex, not as much as other 4x4's admittedly, but they do flex. Is it common for the moon roof to crack? I have so far only heard of one and that was mine and it cracked during a weekend away doing some reasonably serious tracks. For normal every day driving and 4x4 off roading I wouldn't be worried about it cracking, its not common. As others have said the D3 and D4 have both a monocoque body and full chassis bolted together, they are incredibly strong but they do flex.

As for a earlier comment about V8's only being made up to 2007 that is not correct, you could buy V8 D3's right up the D4 being introduced.

If I was in the market for another D3 then it would be a V8 HSE, one hell of a lot of vehicle for the money and with virtually no ongoing expensive maintenance costs compared to the 2.7, apart from the shared auto costs.

If you plan to keep the Disco you buy long term then don't worry about fuel bills when it comes to petrol versions, fuel in one of these vehicles is one of the lowest on going cost factors as these vehicles get older.

If I was determined to buy a diesel then it would be a early 2.7 D4, again maintenance bills is the main reason. By 2009/10 they had the 2.7's longevity greatly improved over the earlier diesel models.

To the OP good luck on what ever you buy, as others have said try and look for one with a good service history and that hasn't been bashed off road to much.

So before buying D3 with roughly 120k to 180k kms how would you settle yourself that the risk of major common problems is low?

There are a couple of examples in this thread of big expenses after buying.

From what I can tell, the two common issues are transmission and EBP. What are the othe majors?

How can you de-risk these - just find out that either have been serviced? Or just assume that an issue like this is going to come up?

Originally Posted by mcwazza

So before buying D3 with roughly 120k to 180k kms how would you settle yourself that the risk of major common problems is low?

There are a couple of examples in this thread of big expenses after buying.

From what I can tell, the two common issues are transmission and EBP. What are the othe majors?

How can you de-risk these - just find out that either have been serviced? Or just assume that an issue like this is going to come up?

Records of the timing belt/ fuel pump belt and oil pump being replaced and the auto trans sump pan and fluid change.
As i'm also looking at D3's and something that has come up in regards to the trans pan is if the car has still got a plastic pan, does this mean it hasnt been serviced or just that the disposable plastic pan and been replaced with the same ?

Also... I'm looking for/ happy with petrol

Originally Posted by loanrangie

Records of the timing belt/ fuel pump belt and oil pump being replaced and the auto trans sump pan and fluid change.
As i'm also looking at D3's and something that has come up in regards to the trans pan is if the car has still got a plastic pan, does this mean it hasnt been serviced or just that the disposable plastic pan and been replaced with the same ?

Im guessing you would have to take the persons word for it. The most expensive part of the oil change is the oil , the steel pan and filter were less than the cost of oil so I guess if you plan on keeping the car then for the cost of only buying the filter and gasket (plus oil ) compared to buying the complete plastic sump with moulded filter the costs would come out similar. I do know 1 thing , its a lot easier doing the 2nd service with the steel pan.


Come to think of it I don't think you could replace the plastic sump with the same as you need to cut the neck off the filter so you can remove it without pulling the cross member off on the diesel model, if my memory serves me correctly. I think the petrol model could be viable as I think you have to remove a cross member to do the job.

I am happy to be corrected if I have that wrong.


Cheers Ean

Originally Posted by mcwazza

So before buying D3 with roughly 120k to 180k kms how would you settle yourself that the risk of major common problems is low?

There are a couple of examples in this thread of big expenses after buying.

From what I can tell, the two common issues are transmission and EBP. What are the othe majors?

How can you de-risk these - just find out that either have been serviced? Or just assume that an issue like this is going to come up?

the other thing that you need to consider is , if the car has had the timing belt done, did the oil pump get changed at the same time for the beefed up version. Its something that seems as tho can have the possibility of failing after a belt change because the timing belt tensioner bolts into the corner of the oil pump housing and the old style housing doesn't cope with the stress placed on it.


Its something I would be looking into if I was purchasing a second hand 2.7 TDV6 D3 .


Cheers Ean

Originally Posted by Ean Austral

[/B]Im guessing you would have to take the persons word for it. The most expensive part of the oil change is the oil , the steel pan and filter were less than the cost of oil so I guess if you plan on keeping the car then for the cost of only buying the filter and gasket (plus oil ) compared to buying the complete plastic sump with moulded filter the costs would come out similar. I do know 1 thing , its a lot easier doing the 2nd service with the steel pan.


Come to think of it I don't think you could replace the plastic sump with the same as you need to cut the neck off the filter so you can remove it without pulling the cross member off on the diesel model, if my memory serves me correctly. I think the petrol model could be viable as I think you have to remove a cross member to do the job.

I am happy to be corrected if I have that wrong.


Cheers Ean

I was reading some posts from 2 years ago and 1 member mentioned that he had the plastic pan replaced with another plastic pan due to lack of availability of the steel pan so wondering if it was done here before the move to the steel pan ? And was the steel pan a LR updated part like the oil pump housing ?