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Mine did the same. I ordered the full X8R compressor repair kit after errors started occurring. This resolved the problem for 2 months before they started coming back again. In the end I just replaced the compressor and thus wasted money on the refurb kit. I think if you wait until the errors start popping up, doing a refurb only delays the inevitable. Mine was 10 years old, which is a decent lifespan I suppose...Quote:
Originally Posted by shanegtr
OK so I rebuilt the Hitachi unit on the weekend. pretty easy to do, and a well made piece of kit. Here are some photos of the rebuild. Several key points;Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE
I used my Rovacom VCIQ to empty the receiver before disconnecting the air lines, and dropped the car to access height before jacking up the passenger side to get to the compressor, had no issues regarding removing pressurised air lines.
1. Removal and install - the top M10 bolt near the upper edge of the chassis rail is pretty tricky to get to, I used a ratchet 10mm spanner to undo, and a 10mm socket on a wobble bar and uni joint for the reinstall, I was able to get the wobble bar up and behind the compressor and reach the bolt so a win there.
2. The cast alloy of the compressor is pretty soft, take care when tightening screws and bolts, I used loctite and high temp gasket maker.
3. In mine the steel and felt filter had jammed in the dryer on an angle with the desiccant behind it, took a bit of persuasion to get it out, DO NOT use a pick or screwdriver on the inside surface of the dryer to pry it out, as this will allow air to bypass the filter.
4. I opened and checked all the clean air passages, I had no issue undoing the valve outlets after a liberal spray with WD40 and letting it soak, I sprayed the entire compressor then replaced the desiccant while the WD40 soaked in. Caked on dirt just wiped off. There was some black dust and tracking in the galleries, a wipe with a clean rag got it all out, followed by a shot of air.
5. I used compressed air to dry and clean everything out before reassembly.
6. Take your time and do one area at a time, note which parts go where.
photos in order as posted: drier after 192000km/8y8m ; compressor as pulled from the car ; piston with new oring, piston glide seal and ring fitted ; drier with alloy cover ; old desiccant vs new desiccant ; new drier filter installed ; clean air side cleaned out ; big end housing with piston and conrod removed.
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There is a guy, Russ Goff, who rebuilds the Hitachi units.
I got one from him and am planning to swap mine over, then rebuild the original pump to keep as a spare.
He is on the UK facebook pages for Discovery 3 and 4.
Is it a full rebuild or does he just fit the service kit, bit of a character Russ is.Quote:
Originally Posted by Aussie Jeepster
There’s two main service kits, one include the new alloy drier cover, the other just the desiccant and o rings. Apart from the motor that drives the compressor piston, these kits pretty much replace every wearing part. So I don’t know what else a “full rebuild” would be, unless replacing the piston, which I doubt you could buy separately. The motor would not have any serviceable parts imho.Quote:
Originally Posted by loanrangie
anyway, been pretty happy with it so far, the car raises in less than 10 seconds from access to normal and another 10 to off-road height, and no or little noise from the compressor, no fault codes and no leaks.
Forgot to mention that when reinstalled, need to run through the EAS enable sequence on the Rovacom as otherwise the car stays in “dealer mode”. I ran the EAS ecu self test, passed, and then the EAS enable sequence, raised the car to offroad, back to access and back to normal to cycle through all the valves. Went for a drive, then physically measured each corner at each std height setting, all within a few mm of each other, all OK.
No I was asking about the one he got from Russ in the UK, I know he does refurbs but pretty sure he just fits the service kit as there isn't anything else you can replace on them.Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE
I've been using overhaul kits on the compressor for long enough to know its a good option to do on both D3 / D4.
The only difficult bit is replacing the end seal on the piston, you really need to take care and it takes most of the time involved.
Roger that, took me a good 40min to cut the seal away and prise the ring off the piston, trying not to damage it. Emery paper to finish it before reseating with a 17mm socketQuote:
Originally Posted by DazzaTD5
Two years later since the rebuild. I thought the exhaust valve was the issue so wasted money on a kit for that. Turns out the original rebuild kit had already failed.
Rusted out bottom filter plate and blocked filter. Desiccant useless.
Have put the desiccant in the oven and cleaned and switched filter pads around. Also changed the exhaust valve since I had it. Will see if it can get another twelve months out of it.
It is working so far.
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And on reflection I suspect that my water leak into the cabin from the vent overhang under the scuttle caused high humidity in the cabin air drawn in from the cabin filter for the air compressor, likely exacerbating the wetness off the desiccant. I still am not convinced the kit is of the best quality.
