Clunk in front suspension

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Originally Posted by pprass

They are going to replace just the bushes, but to do that they have to order the tooling as well which will take a couple of weeks to get shipped out to them. However the good news is that it is going to be done under warranty

I also pointed out that the plastic trim below the front windscreen has prematurely weathered and is discoloured and patchy - going to be replaced under warranty as well!

Finally I noticed in the past few days that the automatic head lights that go on when the surrounding light gets down to a certain level, don't switch off when the light becomes brighter.

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I've had the same done as you under warranty.
Front LCA bushes at around 45 or 50,000 I think it was. Dealers used to change complete arms but now do bushes.
Windscreen cowl earlier this year at about 2.5 years old and this seems very common.
The sensor issue will be related to the windscreen replacement as mentioned already.

Cheers,
Scott

Well - I just went back to O'brien's and they said that there is no sensor in my windscreen for the lights!
I am going back to the dealer to find out what is going on.

I'm half way through replacing my front lower LCAs. Those ball joint tapers are an absolute pig to split. The joint is too tall for my taper splitter and a conventional puller will not budge one. On one side it released by jacking up onto the joint stud (with the nut released by 5mm) to place the whole weight of the vehicle on the taper. Even this on the 2nd side will not budge it. Tried heat and a tap with a FBH. Looks like a trip to the auto store tomorrow morning to see if I can source a bigger taper splitter..... Once I get the taper released it will take less than an hour to remove and install the new arm.

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Originally Posted by cjc_td5

I'm half way through replacing my front lower LCAs. Those ball joint tapers are an absolute pig to split.

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Chris, this is why I'm thinking the bush press tool set is the better option and just change bushes on vehicle.

Scott

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Originally Posted by LRD414

Chris, this is why I'm thinking the bush press tool set is the better option and just change bushes on vehicle.

Scott

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Not sure you could change the bushes insitu? The bushes sit in recesses in the subframe so the arm would have to be partially removed to get to the bushes anyway.

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Originally Posted by cjc_td5

Not sure you could change the bushes insitu? The bushes sit in recesses in the subframe so the arm would have to be partially removed to get to the bushes anyway.

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That's right but no need to touch ball joint or half shaft, three bolts to undo. See this thread:
Front LCA rear bush remover tool for loan! Central Coast NSW

And this thread:
DIY Lower Control Arm Bush Replacement

Cheers,
Scott

Yay, the power of google. I have tried most tricks but a goigle search extolled the success of a sharp tap on the shank near the taper. Sure enough, 2 whacks with a drift and FBH and it popped free 😁😁. Tomorrow mornings job to finish it off.

Scott, thanks for the link, interesting. I already have a shop press so wouldn't be investing in another puller. The arm can be removed without having to disturb the half shaft. Undo 4 bolts/nuts and it will come free with a bit of wriggling about. Once I had it out it took about 30mins to install the new one.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by cjc_td5

I'm half way through replacing my front lower LCAs. Those ball joint tapers are an absolute pig to split. The joint is too tall for my taper splitter and a conventional puller will not budge one. On one side it released by jacking up onto the joint stud (with the nut released by 5mm) to place the whole weight of the vehicle on the taper. Even this on the 2nd side will not budge it. Tried heat and a tap with a FBH. Looks like a trip to the auto store tomorrow morning to see if I can source a bigger taper splitter..... Once I get the taper released it will take less than an hour to remove and install the new arm.

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Two new front lower LCAs installed. A wheel alignment is booked for tomorrow.

A few observations:
1) A 24mm deep reach socket is of huge value to access the LCA bolts.
2) The swivel ball joint tapers were a pig to release. Ended up needing a puller done up as tight as possible, a heap of WD40 and a sharp hit from the side on the shank to release them. It took 2hrs per side just to release the tapers...:bat::bat:
3) The workshop manual does not say to remove the protection guard near the rear LCA mounts but it has to be removed to access these bolts... It is easy enough to remove, just 5x 10mm bolts.
4) The LH rear LCA nut is a ***** to access due to the exhaust right next to it. A deep socket is too long so was ring spanner only... (see comment below about chassis height..)
5) The workshop manual says to lower the vehicle to Access Height, I presume so that the strut is at a manageable length for disconnection etc. Make sure that when you jack up the vehicle to place it on stands you raise it right up. If you lift it only enough to get the wheels off the ground, the chassis is still very close to the ground and you will be spending a lot of time wriggling around under there, especially if you have not taken off the protection guard yet. It also meant that my ring spanners would not swing through under the vehicle as they would hit the ground, greatly slowing things down. :bat::bat:
6) It is not necessary to disturb the half shaft. The outer joint can be separated with the CV in place. If you are going to release it, you will need a big socket. I didn't measure the size but it was certainly bigger than anything in my collection.
7) Other than the tapers issues above, the job should take less than 2hrs per side.

Fun fun fun [thumbsupbig][thumbsupbig]. I'm still happy to have done it myself though.

Cheers,
Chris

Be aware there is a height dimension before doing up the bush through bolts so the bush is not under stress at normal height. I also replaced sway bar bushes at the same time.

6) It is not necessary to disturb the half shaft. The outer joint can be separated with the CV in place. If you are going to release it, you will need a big socket. I didn't measure the size but it was certainly bigger than anything in my collection.