Thread: Suspension Faults

Been driving around the last couple of days and no faults. So my guess that the exhaust valve was cracked open just enough to stop the system getting to full pressure was probably right.

So if you rebuild your air compressor and it still faults with "normal height only" C1A20 - pressure increases too slow when filling reservoir then also check your exhaust valve.

I have ordered a new exhaust valve housing (already have the new spring and seals) so the decision will be - do I tempt Mr Murphy and drop the compressor and replace the housing and seals risking further mayhem, or do I also tempt Mr Murphy and let the superglue continue to do its work and leave things as they are and only 'permanently' fix it if it plays up again - noting the car will still drive but not be able to do height changes on the move.

One aspect of this long saga is that I have learnt the ins and out of these compressors and with the exception of a physical failure of say the electric motor or the conrod etc there is no real reason to replace them when they fault as all the wear components are available.

Garry

So just and update - been three weeks now and no issues - fault fixed so must have been as I surmised.

I still have not put the covers on the compressor so can here what is going on. Compressor always runs on start - short or long depending on air in the tank. Some say in a good system the compressor should not run if there is no air loss - but the system is constantly farting depoending on what is happening - temp lowers over night and pressure reduces so compressor tops it up on start, likewise occassional it will fart when the car wakes up and checks level and may fart.

On start the compressor runs and normally there is a fart, when you stop on the level or on a slope it will fart as part of the self level function - and occasionally when shut down it will fart when the car wakes up.

Though harder to hear because of road noise - the car is constantly self levelling - compressor running for short period and farting to reduce pressure - you miss this with the covers on and the windows up.

This process has been extremely educational, I never realised that there is only one pipe to the reservoir - so air goes into the tank in one pipe but comes out through the same pipe, the most important component in the system (other than the ECU) is the central control block shuttling air to where it is needed. The last interesting thing is why does the desiccant last so long (in my case 12 years)? You go to Woolies and buy some to get rid of damp in your cupboard and it only lasts a couple of months max - well in the car system it takes what is normally dehumidified air from the rear of the cabin (assuming you have climate control on), whatever water is still in the air is captured by the desiccant after the pump but it lasts and lasts - this is because when the system vents the dehumidified air from the air bags etc - it is not straight to atmosphere but it goes back into the desiccant chamber and sucks out some of the moisture in the beads before venting to atmosphere.

Really if you have the time to wait for parts, there is really no reason to buy a new compressor.

Anyone got a dead Hitachi they want to sell me cheap

Garry