DEAD D4

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Originally Posted by drivesafe

Hi Scott, do not attempt to drive your D4 and if you have a multi meter, measure the cranking battery voltage.

If you have had an alternator meltdown, which because of a major Land Rover design flaw, does not give you the indication on your dash, your battery voltage will be down round 7v.

If the is the case, you need to disconnect the battery terminals and try to recharge the battery.

Unfortunately, your battery is probably damaged already.

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I had a multimeter on mine and went to 11v in minutes, and I turned it off. Wouldn’t start again.

Check the specs on replacement alternators for the 3.0 as it seems that LR has reduced them from 180A to 140A. A 140A one can be expected to fail as quickly as the 140A 2.7 alternators rather than the longer lasting 3.0 alternators. My son Justin has acquired a 220A 4.4 TDV8 alternator and fitted a free-wheeling pulley as normally fitted to the 3.0 in place of the 4.4's fixed pulley. The diodes shouldn't be working close to their current limit for nearly as long especially when compared with a 140A.

Original 3.6 TDV8 alternators are renowned for their short lives, moreso than 2.7 D3/D4 alternators.

As suspected it was an alternator failure. I have no further info as yet. Don't think I mentioned that there was no prior warning apart from the msg on the dash, then lights out pretty much straight after that.CheersScott.

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Originally Posted by scomac

As suspected it was an alternator failure. I have no further info as yet. Don't think I mentioned that there was no prior warning apart from the msg on the dash, then lights out pretty much straight after that.CheersScott.

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Textbook....😐

Just curious, is the V6 petrol alternator also subject to these potential issues, or is the diesel alternator a different model?
My rerason for asking is that I'm off to the god old USA in 3 weeks, and thought I might pick up something like this:
100% NEW ALTERNATOR FOR LAND ROVER LR3 GENERATOR 4.0L V6 150Amp *ONE YR WARRANTY | eBay