How to solder 6B&S

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Originally Posted by loanrangie

Not tried 6bs but it does 6mm auto easily, definitely gets hot enough.

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6B&S is more than twice the csa as 6mm. More like 14mm.

A very long time ago[bighmmm] we had to solder lugs on the end of one inch diameter starter cables for large electric motors, the Sydney Water Board(remember them?) wanted visual proof of methodolgy, so we soldered half a dozen and then cut the lugs in half, all went well.
We used a small oxy for heat and sodden asbestos sheet pulped and formed around each cable to stop the insulation burning,,

That would still be ok today? yes? [bigrolf]

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Originally Posted by Mick_Marsh

6B&S is more than twice the csa as 6mm. More like 14mm.

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True, my hot air gun gets to over 400c so plenty hot enough to melt solder.

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Originally Posted by Ooops

DriveSafe mentioned the following:

Despite the general misconception testing has shown that solder joints are 13% stronger than crimped

The makers of the Anderson connectors recommend both crimping and soldering as being equally applicable to the product

Crimping being more suitable for auto use than soldering is a myth. Joints that fail do so because they are incorrectly supported.

a good crimp or a good solder are ..... well, all good[biggrin]

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In industry (switchboards and 415V stuff) , soldered joints are very much frowned upon, there have been a couple of cases where the circuit has had a problem, the solder melted and things have gone much further south from there. I personally have found a couple of soldered joints where the flux hasn't been cleaned off before being taped up and over time the joint has corroded. Though I've not had any problems with soldered joints in auto's my view is in favour of crimps as I think they are easier to get right. However I've happily put a few soldered joints in my car.

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Originally Posted by Ooops

You've completely lost me on that one, perhaps I need to get on the turps for it to become clear

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Yea, the comment was a bit vague, one chap suggested you go to Jaycar. I think your nearest is probably in Darwin.

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Originally Posted by Ooops

Thanks Dorian that's a cracking idea

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Thanks, passed down to me from an old friend.

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Originally Posted by Ooops

I've never come across any thing like that. I'll have a look on line but it sounds as if it may be a bit too big for the available space

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This is more for general info than anything else, but as it happens, I had a sparky onsite yesterday arvo. You need a thing called a C Crimp for doing Y Joints. [bigrolf]
C TAPS, COPPER, C CRIMPS, C TAP CRIMPS, CEMBRE C TAPS, COPPER C TAPS, EARTHING, OVERHEAD LINE
These are the things in the jointing kits I talked about, down side is you will need a specific crimper to get it right and you cant heat shrink the final joint.

Cheers Glen

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Originally Posted by Dorian

one chap suggested you go to Jaycar. I think your nearest is probably in Darwin.

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Sorry, I was being a bit dense. Yes that made me smile too.

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Originally Posted by loanrangie

... my hot air gun gets to over 400c so plenty hot enough to melt solder.

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I'm definitely going to give this a try. In fact I'm going to have a go on some scrap at several of these to see which I get on best with.
Its always nice to have more than one trick up your sleeve

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Originally Posted by weeds

I have always soldered all my 6B&S with a small gas butane flame........never had issues.

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Weeds I'm keen to give this a go. Is there a particular version that you could recommend?

Today I filed a flat on the 100w and it was a different story, I got a decent joint but again the insulation was very hot and pliable, no where near as bad as before though. I need to get some 6B&S for further practice on this and the other great suggestions that have been put forward ....... perhaps not the asbestos though[biggrin]

Gents,

for the gas soldering irons how many watts and what size & shape bit would you recommend for 6B&S?

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Originally Posted by Ooops

Sorry, I was being a bit dense. Yes that made me smile too.


I'm definitely going to give this a try. In fact I'm going to have a go on some scrap at several of these to see which I get on best with.
Its always nice to have more than one trick up your sleeve


Weeds I'm keen to give this a go. Is there a particular version that you could recommend?

Today I filed a flat on the 100w and it was a different story, I got a decent joint but again the insulation was very hot and pliable, no where near as bad as before though. I need to get some 6B&S for further practice on this and the other great suggestions that have been put forward ....... perhaps not the asbestos though[biggrin]

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You’ll struggle to find an iron that can do it. You want a small butane blow torch. One of these heating the fitting works a treat

Tradeflame Pocket Blow Torch With Refillable Fuel Cartridge

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Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster

You’ll struggle to find an iron that can do it. You want a small butane blow torch. One of these heating the fitting works a treat

Tradeflame Pocket Blow Torch With Refillable Fuel Cartridge

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Pretty sure there's no bunnings in Muscat, Oman DiscoJeffster, however Ooops may find something useful here
I've got one that came from Aldi as a 'special buy'. I take off the soldering tip and use the torch feature to solder 6B+S.
Don.

It’s about the product, not the supplier. He’ll get the idea.

Im making an electric car at present . All the cable to lug joints have to be crimped , dozens of them. solder joins are a no - no . Chinese 8 ton Hydraulic crimper works a treat, Should have bought one years ago.

Also use of dielectric grease on connections is recommended. As I used to have to use when working on batteries in Telecom

Batt wire lugs: crimp, solder, or hammer crimp? - DIY Electric Car Forums