is 200 amps to much

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mikeh

LED power is usually quoted in Lumens. Incandescant lights in watts. eg [table]
[TR]
[TD]1500 lm
[/TD]
[TD]= 100 W
[/TD]
[TD]


[/TD]
[/TR]
[/table]
Watts current draw is measured in amps whereas led current draw is in Milli-amps

Using ohms law ........watts (w) = current (I) * volts (V) or W=I*V in watts.

To obtain the current draw of the above example 100watts is calculated as I=W/V or 100/12= 8.3333amps.

I hope this will clarify things for you.

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Incandescent can be expressed as Lumens/Watt but cannot be expressed in Watts alone as that is a measure of power not light.

There are different levels of efficiency in filament based bulbs and it can vary quite significantly.

LED power is quoted in Watts, but negates to mention that is at 100% (which they can not sustain)..
The Lumen output quoted is often (rule rather than exception) in theoretical Lumens (what the emitter can produce at full power) rather than actual lumens, measured after the Driver/Thermal management have taken control.

Hence why a 20” - 20x10w (200w) LED Bar only consumes ~50% of the quoted power.

The other point of note at this point in technology...

Luminous efficiency of a LED at the same point in the colour spectrum as a Xenophot Bulb is about the same power consumption....

240w is hopefully what you meant,
240w is approx 20amp @ 12volts (approx due to voltage drop over cable length, size,etc)
divide wattage (240) by voltage (12) to get amps (20)
hope this helps Waz

I've followed this thread with great interest as I have a pair of LED's to fit to my D3.
I've long been a lover of Rigid Industries lights, as as I've done a lot of back and forth trips to the US over the last few years, I've been able to get them at some great prices in the US.
When I had my Wrangler, I had 5 sets of Dually's on it and it certainly turned night into day. In hindsight, it was overkill for most situations.
I currently have a pair of D2 Dually's in pencil beam to fit to my D3, and I will certainly not be using heavy wiring. The loom/relay supplied with them will be fine.

D-Series PRO | Driving Surface White Black | Rigid Industries

Here are the specifications:

• Watts: 44
• Amp Draw: 3.14
• LED's: 6
• Raw Lumens: 4752
• Lux @ 10m: 231.48
• Beam Distance: 152.1 m
• Peak Beam Intensity: 23148 cd

Rigid tend to spend more time talking lumens and output, rather than watts and amps.
Whilst they are expensive (here or the US) they are built like tanks.
My suspicion on many of the LED's sold on the Bay of E is that the wattage figures are a bit like saying "my ### is bigger than yours" and the big numbers quoted are more like wankerwatts rather than realwatts!!!!

I know it is advertising on their website, but there is some interesting info here;
RIGID DIFFERENCE - Rigid Industries LED Light Bar - Marine,...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by waz164

240w is hopefully what you meant,
240w is approx 20amp @ 12volts (approx due to voltage drop over cable length, size,etc)
divide wattage (240) by voltage (12) to get amps (20)
hope this helps Waz

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No he was right, HOWEVER, they are quoting that their fake 10W LEDs max output x the number of LEDs so they're saying there are 240 LEDs @ 10W.
To quote one ebay seller literally
"BEAM PARTTERN (sic): 2400W 372000LM OSRAM LEDS. Powered by together 240 pcs super efficient 10W OSRAM LEDS. Flood & Spot Combo Beam. 184 pcsSuper Intensity SPOT (30°) LEDS, Much More Brighter, Make The Night Into Day,56 pcs Multi-Angle Reflection FLOOD (150°) LEDS, Wider vision"

So as you can see, this is bull**** at its best. The fact is they don't run the 10W LEDs at 10W for a start. They are most likely copy LEDs as well.

Will it work? Probably. Will LEDs fail, yes. Will it matter? Probably not. Will the entire light's supply power supply fail rendering the light useless? Maybe.

The OP has no worries with the current draw however, which is the main point. Just because there is a supposed inclusion of 240 10W LEDs, doesn't mean they're drawing that. I don't even believe they are 10W based on the size on the SMDs. It's all complete and utter codswallop.

Just out of interest, check what size relay you get supplied, that will tell you what they draw, and it ain't much, maybe 30 or 40 amp, and the light obviously uses less than that,I used to worry about it as well, but I've not checked current draw, however I've never wrecked a relay they've supplied, and they are certainly not 100 amp jobs, even on the big lights......
Some people/companies are just a whisker economical with the truth

HA HA finally got a reply from one of these ******* after asking for the full technical specs this is what I received.

dear friend.
we have checked that the size light is suitable for your car (2013 TDV6 155kw auto discovery 4)
you could buy and try it on your car
if it couldn't work well as you wonder.
we aslo do return or resend work for you.
hope for your reply
have a nice day.
best regards.


Thanks to all replys has been a real eye opener. Did not realise LEDs are not driven at full power so have to brush up on my electronics knowledge in this area.
Seems there is no real standard to judge these things by before buying except word of mouth and some reviews which seem to be on $500+ units, another BS number.
As we all know price does not equal quality the same as watts do not equal luminosity if that has not been said enough.
Thanks for this link they go into a lot of detail for there products and they are only a few bucks dearer then the ebay "buy my crap and I love you" dealers.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/redirect-...ight-bars.html
I will probably buy a bar from them and see how it goes as all I want is a bit more punch to my hi beam lights.

Yeah. I’d love a Stedi, but as I only go away three times a year, and even then rarely drive at night, I can’t justify it. My supacentre jobbies fit the bill for the amount they get used.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by donh54

Don't tell anyone, but 10x100 watt/lumen/whatever measure you use, leds, doesn't equal 1000 watts of usable light. Each element is producing 100 whatevers. That's all you get. Whether there's 1, 10 or 100 of them. They don't stack on each other, they are side by side. The only thing that increases is the total current draw.

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Let's put it simply. What we SEE is not what we PERCEIVE. The former is for Engineers, the latter for us, real people in a real world, so, a doubling of light output/power use/BS advertising Number will result in (real world...) a small but obvious increase in brightness... but not what you would call "Twice as much"

Like the ears, our eyes work in a more logarithmic progression.
To illustrate from the Real World was the craze in home lighting some decades ago, big imports of (fake) 'brass & glass' multi-lamp pendants... you know, take out the single ceiling globe and plug in the 'chandelier' in either 3 or 5 lamp configurations. But with a max of 60W each, chewing up 3x 60W = 180watts...gave not much more light than the single clear 100W it replaced !

Here's a reference to a lumen-fetish forum you may find ... 'illuminating'

Do lumens add up?

Bottom line for vehicles and spotties etc, you get the greatest amount of useful light (brightness) with the least number of active light sources, and a single pencil-beam 100W 'spottie' goes further/brighter than a pair of 50W spots -aligned one on top of the other.

But aimed side by side, the pair of 50W spots gives twice the lit-up area with lesser brightness.
Lightbars are designed (usually...) for gi-normous S P R E A D over shorter range, which they do very well.

“Gi-normous” spread... [emoji56]

And huge amounts of light so close the eye cannot resolve correctly and then focuses back to the bright area directly around the vehicle.

Rendering mid to longer distance vision poor...