Hi Martin, you need to rest the battery or batteries, between chargers, but I will give a more detailed reply in my auto electrical section, I just need the time to write it up.Quote:
Originally Posted by letherm
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Hi Martin, you need to rest the battery or batteries, between chargers, but I will give a more detailed reply in my auto electrical section, I just need the time to write it up.Quote:
Originally Posted by letherm
Hi Mike and again, I will cover this in depth in my auto electrical thread, but yes connected the solar panel wires birectly to the battery, and this can be done via an Anderson plug at the rear of a vehicle, or just straight to the battery’s terminals.Quote:
Originally Posted by mick88
Nearly all solar panels are supplied with a blocking diode installed, but just check to be sure.
With the blocking diode in place, your batteries will not discharge back through your solar panel at night.
Is this the thread you're talking about?Quote:
Originally Posted by drivesafe
On-Line auto electrical info
Martin
YesQuote:
Originally Posted by letherm
Give these a big miss - I'm returning mine as they either don't work, or the app doesn't work - not sure which, but i'm getting a no questions asked refund on themQuote:
Originally Posted by Aussie Jeepster
i have the REDARC one and it works well.Quote:
Originally Posted by Aussie Jeepster
sends up to 4 displays to little display screen.
i monitor my van which is at the front of the house and my car two batteries in the garage.
i keep the monitor inside my house.
Rich
My D4 is 4yo, has Tim’s SC80 DBS, and had the original cranking battery load tested while being serviced today at MR Automotive at Redcliffe.
i had noticed the voltmeter on the Tekonsha P3 had been reading well in to the 14+ volts most of the time while driving over the last 12 months, and low battery warning showing after a few days to a week if vehicle been parked up in the garage, and batteries isolated from each other.
Battery failed the load test and was replaced. On the way home (50km) I noted the voltmeter was reading low 13’s.
Certainly a more reponsive startup now.
I have usually put the vehicle on the charger for the first weekend of every month.
Interesting comment re 14v. I monitor voltage by dash readout when iiD is plugged in. It is nearly always at or over 14v. I’d say only 10% of the time it’s around 13.5v I’ll keep monitoring but have come to the view that 14v is basically normal.
Scott
I had similar discharging issues with my D3 for several years, if I didn't drive it for two weeks the battery would go flat, in that time I had fitted three new batterys, all did the same.
Finally had a local workshop check it out and they found that the main battery had quite a drain on when the vehicle was parked which was causing the battery to go flat faster than it should.
They found the Techonsa break controller was causing a substantial drain as was the dual battery charging system. As did the LED on/off light on the ARB compressor. Once they were all disconnected the D3 went back to being able to sit for up to a month without any battery issues.
Some of you with lots of accessories might be surprised at how much extra power is being drained while your Disco is parked. Might be worth getting it checked out.
Mine sits over 14v (14.4 - 14.7v) for a little while after starting up (though we live at the top of a hill, so it coasts down first thing in the mornings). After a little while it has presumably replaced the power used while parked and in starting up, when it shows 13.4 or 13.5v.Quote:
Originally Posted by LRD414
Interestingly though, when I had the fridge plugged in on a trip to Denmark and back, the voltage seemed to hover around 13.7 to 13.8. Almost as if it was trying to compensate for voltage drop to the rear cig plugs (no DBS, yet). Voltmeter is at the front cig plug.
