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Hi Garry One thing to check before installing the alternator is to check how many v s are on the pulley I found out the hard way one v more on the new one too the old one. Not a hard job changing pulleys but when you have to take the alternator back out and put it back in its a punish. Cant understand how both alternators had different pulleys but same part number.
Cheers
New alternator now installed and after a couple of starts all faults have gone.
Process is not as simple as the Disco3 UK site indicated - basic process was spot on but did miss a couple of little minor issues - like once the bolts are removed how to get the alternator out and the new one in - I have probably stressed the little rubber coolant hose that runs by the alternator getting it out so will be keeping a close watch for coolant leaks.
Clearly an operational alternator needs to be in the system to stop cascading faults caused by communication errors - this is despite a fully charged battery in the system = yes the engine will sort of run and the gearbox will sort of work but even when battery voltage is 12.8 v, if the alternator is not working you get more than just a battery light.
The old alternator did not have any burnt smell so windings should be Ok and probably just a rectifier failure - I might see if I can get a repair kit and see what happens.
Thanks - for all the input - much appreciated.
Garry
It might just need new brushes but if the diodes haven't failed then best to replace them (the diodes) anyway.
Ashdown Ingram sell them.
Further to my remark. I bought a new alternator from Ashdown Ingram, just needed to swap the pulley from mine with a rattle gun. It is a D3 2.7 and has been driven around Australia without further issue. Cost was substantially less than anywhere else.
The ones that Ashdown Ingram (and many other companies) sell are Denso knock-offs (OEX Brand) not Denso Brand (made in Taiwan rather than Japan) - mine came with the correct pulley.
Glad to hear yours is running OK as I had a concern the quality might not be up to what was required.
Cheers
Garry
I have had issues with field pickups not making continuous contact at high revs but work at lower revs it may be worth checking
Cheers
Des
Hi all,
Does anyone have the part number for the rectifier kit for these? Or a reference guide as I am looking for a kit for a D4 2.7 alternator kit and seem to be hard to find.
I currently have an OEX DX588 in mine and after 18 months its starting to fail (dropping to 13.2 v for about 30 seconds at a time before returning to 13.5 / 13.7v). So as it has a 3 year waranty will be going back, but need another to fit so want to refurbish my Denso unit with a new rectifier.
Issue I have is they want you to return it to place of purchase for warranty claim. What the hell are you supposed to do while investigating.
Cheers
Craig
They are variable voltage alternators controlled by the ECM to reduce emissions, mine will sometimes go all the way to 12.7v under acceleration, then spike to 14.4v when I'm coasting down a hill. Because I've got a fridge in the back it often just stays around the 13.8 Mark these daysQuote:
Originally Posted by CraigE
Yeah but I think I have either a battery or alternator failing. Initial figures show neither but will do a battery load test. But volts drop to 13.2 and then charge light comes on, but goes away after about 30 seconds and back upt to 13.5/13.7 volts.Quote:
Originally Posted by josh.huber
The other issue is I dont think the 2011 is classified as a smart alternator just variable charge so can mean different batteries. I have listings that state it needs and AGM stop start battery and others that say it does not.