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Thread: 2.7 TDV6 Alternator Issues

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    2.7 TDV6 Alternator Issues

    This is for a RRS but as the issue is the same for a D3 I will put this here to get more visibility.

    ** Cut to the last two lines for the short version - alternator stuffed - need a new one**

    Drove the car on Sunday for a total of 600km and no issues. Since then the car only used yesterday for a local trip around town.

    Started this morning and after about 500m I noticed the battery light on - battery (relatively new) started the car no issues so suspected the alternator. Stopped at the shops and put the Faultmate FCR on and only code was P0625 - Generator Field Terminal - Circuit Low - General Electrical Failure - Interim circuit short to ground.

    As there is a Auto Elect nearby I decided to head there for a check but when driving the battery light did not come back on so decided to head on my errands. Soon after the battery light was back on and then I started getting the cascade of failure messages of all systems. So headed back to the auto elect - 12.6v running with no apparent charge but didn't really seem to understand the RRS/D3 charging system so didn't inspire confidence so I thought I would head over to my independent.

    On the way it threw up the F fault on the gearbox and I was in first at the time with about 10km to go so was a slow trip - then threw up overheading faults, suspension etc etc etc. I stopped and switched off to clear all these and put the FCR back on - all communications fault with the only real one being the alternator. Car would not restart and did after a bit.

    Got to the indi and he confirmed (testing and electrical smell) that the alternator was not charging - but with revs the light went out and there was a glimmer of charge going in. He said 1 hours labour and the alternator would be about $1200 (he only used genuine parts). So I said I would have a think about it as I could change the thing myself and save a bit. He gets my work when I am not inclined to do things myself, he is very good and it up front with charging arrangements so there are no mis understandings.

    I started to head back home and the battery light was on and the F fault was on and I think I was stuck in 3rd. Headed off home with a max speed of 80kph at 3000rpm. Other than the F faults no other cacading faults were coming up which was good.

    What I noticed is when I pulled up at lights the charging light came on after being at idle for about 30s and then when I headed off the light went out when rves god above 2000rpm and when I got home the battery was up to 12.8v so must be charging at higher revs.

    Clearly the alternator has had it - I have the battery is on charge so can use the car locally but the alternator needs changing.

    Other than from LR where is the best and cheapest place to get a new alternator from? I gather there is no point trying to fix the old one.

    Is there anything I specifically need to watch for in changing it out.

    Thanks

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  2. #2
    Tombie Guest
    Fly it in...

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    If you can wait get one from the UK, LRDirect, Rimmers etc. I've been getting parts from LRDirect in 3-4 days if they have it in stock, a week if they have to get it in. If you can't wait try Karcraft, RoverLord or other independent supplier. It can be worthwhile to look on ebay as well. If you search for LR008861 you will find a variety of new and refurbished units.

    If the RRS is the same as the 2.7 D3 it isn't too bad a job, removing the fan and accessing the rear of the alternator is the hardest part.
    Fuji white RRS L494 AB

  4. #4
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    Could try "TRSspares" in Padstow - never used them but know of them

  5. #5
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    Thanks for the responses - everything on this car seems to happen late on a Friday afternoon, just before suppliers close.

    As the RRS is my only daily driver and I need it, I thought I would ring around locally - as Tombie indicated my normal ideal would be to fly one in from the UK but that would mean the car would be off the road for at least a week.

    Most places said they can get them in but wouldn't be until next week. I rang Ashdown-Ingram the wholesale/retail auto electrical company and they confirmed they had three in stock for $550 each. They cross referenced the LR part number that Geedublya listed against the Denso part list and so I borrowed a car an went over to get it.

    When I arrived the guy went and got it down and to my disappointment it is not a Denso but a OEX Denso clone (A Denso Style Alternator) - the guy said he did tell me it was a clone on the phone and I guess I have to take his word for that. Ashdown- Ingram are quite reputable and it does come with a 3 year, 45,000km warranty so I took it but it did leave a sour taste in my mouth.

    So I have an alternator to put in tomorrow and hopefully it will last - was it Ean Austral who had a bad run of alternators - that was in the back of my mind.

    When I got back home I again googled alternators and many of the supposed genuine Densos were in fact OEX with prices ranging from $500 to just under $1000. It would seem genuine Densos are around $750 in Australia from LR independents.

    So other than having trouble getting the fan off and the plugs at the back of the alternator off is there anything else I need to worry about.

    Cheers and thanks

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    2.7 TDV6 Alternator Issues

    There’s a how to guide on Disco3.co.uk very helpful with pictures.

    A long ratchet spanner would help for the mounting bolts or expect bloody knuckles and to only get 1/5 turn and it takes a while. I did get a socket on them when reinstalling.

    A few helpful tricks shown to holding the fan in place to undo it and remember it is reverse threaded!!

    A small socket end fits in the square hole in the tensioner pulley making it a cinch to release the belt.

    Should take less than 2 hours for us amateurs. Good luck

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    Good luck Garry, not quite like changing the dynastart on a Haflinger.
    + 2016 D4 TDV6

  8. #8
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    Haven't had to do that - yet
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    Then keep the old alternator and refurbish it with a new rectifier pack (if that's the part that let the smoke out). I did mine and it's now a spare on my workshop shelf ( ready for the next Friday afternoon failure before a long weekend) Rectifier pack on eBay from Ireland? was $35. Search function will give links to part numbers and fitting videos on yousechoob. Solder job with a big iron. Nothing new here. Good luck. Matti
    A few Landies - current = 2009 D3 2.7 Auto with some rusty bits hanging off it.

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    Thanks - the codes are P0625 - Generator Field Terminal - Circuit Low - General Electrical Failure - Interim circuit short to ground. Is that a rectifier issue or a short in the windings? It does seem to be still generating power above 2000 RPM - the battery is maintaining 12.8v (so basically staying charged but draining at lower revs).

    Cheers

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

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