It’s as simple as that - once you work out how to get to the bolts..
Hi all,
I've been searching here and the google net and not been able to find a definitive guide to replacing the rear sway bar bushes on a D3 EAS.
Sure, there are plenty of posts that tell one to jack it up, remove the bolts and replace bushes; but it's not gunna be that simple is it!
I recall a thread with some detail but for the life of me can't find it.
Any hints?
Ralph
01 D2 TD5 Auto...'Sweet Brown'.
06 D3 TDV6 HSE...Zambesi Silver
99 D2 TD5 Auto...in that Goldy colour. Donor
81 S3 2.4 Trayback Ute - Gone now
97 D1 LPG V8 in Blue - Gone now
It’s as simple as that - once you work out how to get to the bolts..
Yep its just 2 bolts for each bush, the access to the bolts is the hardest bit
Shane
2005 D3 TDV6 loaded to the brim with 4 kids!
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-rides/220914-too-many-defender-write-ups-here-time-d3.html
Atlantic British has a video on it from memory.
Interesting note though, if you use ratchet ring spanners, don't back out the bolt too far or you wont get you spanner off the bolt head (you wont be able to reverse the spanner after the bolt gets too close to the body) - something like that.
A few Landies - current = 2009 D3 2.7 Auto with some rusty bits hanging off it.
Okies,
Job Done!
Not to difficult but.....a little time consuming.
For the masses:
My bolts were not corroded and I was able to break the tension with a short cheater bar.
Access is dicky but I was able to remove the rear bolts about 1/12 turn each swing of a ratchet spanner but the front ones are quicker at about 1/6 turn.
I found it difficult to release the tension of the bar to my liking and found a sweetish spot when the hub is jacked up toward the chassis until it just starts to impede the spanner swing.
I did one side at a time which is not ideal as the sway bar has to be just so in order for both mounting shackles to line up. Also new bushes don't have much slack. Once you've tightened one side it's to late to align the other. I had to beat the sway bar across about 3-5 mm to line up the holes on the second side. It's ok, I used a soft blow. As a result, there were no free threads of the last two bolts.
All in all, about 2.5 or 3 hrs work at an easy pace.
Wear gloves if you can, my office hands are too delicate and there are all manner of sharp bitey bits under there.
Results are pretty astonishing. Most of the clunking is gone, including seemingly random ones and the rear seems more responsive and firm.
Yippee. Easy job for a change.
Ralph
01 D2 TD5 Auto...'Sweet Brown'.
06 D3 TDV6 HSE...Zambesi Silver
99 D2 TD5 Auto...in that Goldy colour. Donor
81 S3 2.4 Trayback Ute - Gone now
97 D1 LPG V8 in Blue - Gone now
Good job Ralph...
What diameter sway bars did you have in the end?
01 D2 TD5 Auto...'Sweet Brown'.
06 D3 TDV6 HSE...Zambesi Silver
99 D2 TD5 Auto...in that Goldy colour. Donor
81 S3 2.4 Trayback Ute - Gone now
97 D1 LPG V8 in Blue - Gone now
Front: 28/31/34mm
Rear: 22/23/34mm
01 D2 TD5 Auto...'Sweet Brown'.
06 D3 TDV6 HSE...Zambesi Silver
99 D2 TD5 Auto...in that Goldy colour. Donor
81 S3 2.4 Trayback Ute - Gone now
97 D1 LPG V8 in Blue - Gone now
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