Air Compressor Rebuild ??

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Originally Posted by 101RRS

There must be a zquillion posts on this on the forum.

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+1

Though I did get a flat in my mum's driveway last year. I carry a tyre repair kit with me and was going to us the threads to fix the tyre in place but then remembered I had no way to pump the tyre up so had to go through the horrible process of putting the spare on and getting the tyre place to fix.

After that I did some basic calcs and worked out that a full suspension air tank would be able to get enough air into one tyre to make it driveable - not as a replacement for an offroad air compressor but as an emergency device to pump up one tyre. Would probably work.

But then, the more I thought about it - I figured it would be easier again to just carry a cheap ebay twin cylinder air compressor in the back - is a little slow but will do all my 101 tyres. So I now carry the air compressor in the boot just for these onroad emergencies - for offroad I have my top of the range Aldi single cylinder air compressor that is fast and never failed[happycry].

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Originally Posted by 101RRS

There must be a zquillion posts on this on the forum.

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Zquillion and 2 now

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Originally Posted by BradC

The tank sits at 16.8 bar. A bit of plumbing required to make that work.

Aside from the previous comments on "don't do that, the compressor isn't designed for it" :

When the system pumps up, it brings air in, compresses it and pushes it through the dryer. When it farts, it takes that compressed, dry air and pushes it back through the dryer, ejecting some of the adsorbed moisture. It's a closed system.

If you go taking air from the closed system, you'll quickly saturate the dryer.

A quick calculation of my 255/55/R19 tyres would indicate a volume of somewhere in the order of 70L of air at atmospheric pressure (116L total volume minus 46L rim).

At 25psi, that's ~119L and at 40PSI that's 190L. So I'd need ~71L to go from 25->40 PSI.

The tank on the car is ~9L @ 16.8bar, so ~151L when full.

What do you define as a "topup" ?

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ok not ideal then. and i guess even if you had the outlet at the pump its still going through the desiccant, unless you tapped in between the pump and desiccant if possible.

anyway enough thread hijacking, i did order a desiccant/filter kit as i have the error: kit $50 vs new pump $260, possibly better off just buying new pump, but fingers crossed



C1A20-64 (AF) Pressure increases too slow when filling reservoir

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Originally Posted by haydent

ok not ideal then. and i guess even if you had the outlet at the pump its still going through the desiccant, unless you tapped in between the pump and desiccant if possible.

anyway enough thread hijacking, i did order a desiccant/filter kit as i have the error: kit $50 vs new pump $260, possibly better off just buying new pump, but fingers crossed



C1A20-64 (AF) Pressure increases too slow when filling reservoir

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Any pump for $260 will be cheap junk, get the full rebuild kit and you'll get another 10 years out of it.

I did a desiccant and seal kit on my original hitachi only to find the dryer canister connectors where the problem and leaking... wish id sprayed with soapy water first.

Anyway have ordered a metal plate replacement but coming from overseas, but leaking isn bad now and car is not level so i ordered a cheapo oem off ebay as its in australia and i got it in a few days, just to keep as spare and to borrow the cover plate off it until the new metal one arrived....

Well it turns out there are at least 2 variants being sold, with the one I got, they have replaced the thinner tube appx 5mm diameter that plugs into the orange connector with 6mm connector and tubing.... one plus being that the connectors are screw in and so replaceable compared with stock being part of the lid.

Typically i didnt realise this until id swapped the plates over ... (this can be done with the pump still installed) , so now i have to swap the whole compressor over.... at least it will be drivable again.

So just note, if you want a closer match for spares get the one with the orange and blue connectors.

Or buy from the recommended sellers on here where everyone has had success, else risk is you friend, or enemy

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Originally Posted by DieselLSE

There's a non-return valve immediately downstream of the compressor assembly, so there's no need to de-pressurise the rest of the system if only the compressor assembly is being worked on.

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technically its an electrovalve, so must be electronically opened to allow air in or out of the tank. Ill share some more overview data from the manual.


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