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Kent is pretty much south east from London on the coast, replacement will involve getting under the dash and removing the bolt that holds the booster rod to the brake pedal. Then it should all be done from the engine bay side, doesn't look too hard but will require bleeding the brakes after undoing all the pipes in the removal/replacement.
Yep, I thought as much. Similar to any old Holden lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by loanrangie
I do have an IID BT so bleeding no probs!
I also suspect that it will be 99% straightforward, except for the 1% LR quirk.
A job for the weekend.
Cheers
RJ
Yeah that 1% will take up the whole arvo.
I replaced my valve, tubing and servo unit a few ears ago to solve oil in the booster. The oil had destroyed the rubber diaphram in the booster. The recall had been done ealier according to the dealer
While I was waiting for reasonably priced parts from UK I set up an oil catchcan in the vacuum line to trap the oil before it got to the booster. After the repair i left the catcher in place to prove the new valve was good
After a while I removed the catcher and the repair still good after a few years. Every now and then I check for oil in the lines with a cotton bud
This is my Plan to!Quote:
Originally Posted by Grappler
Could you let me know where you fitted the catch can and what brand/one you used?
If the friendship isn't pushed, maybe a pic?
My plan is to install one in the vacuum line between the booster and the one way valve fitted by the mod.
As I have a dual battery, room is tight.
Cheers
Ralph (RJ)
Im away from home home an the can is on a self in the shed
It is like this Billet Aluminum Car Racing Engine Oil Catch Tank Can Reservoir Black Square 0.6L | eBay
Preserve the existing tubes and extend with non collapsible tubing to install the can . I put mine in the quick disconnect closest to the servo with similar fittings from wrecker. Make sure the system holds vacuum
Alrighty,
I have finished this job. I didn't do pics, but will attempt to explain for those considering it with google free to air non copyrighted images.
Firstly, I'd say as far as jobs go, it's pretty straightforward, but fiddly and time consuming. Not to mention the abuse my delicate office hands suffered!
Firstly, the downloaded manual I used was as good a loo paper. Basically it said:
Remove lower dash access panels, brake buffer plate and clevis pin;
Remove second battery tray, and brake lines to master cylinder;
Unbolt and remove master cylinder and vacuum chamber.
Reverse to re-install.
I read them and threw them away.
Here's what y'all actually have to do!
1. Remove lower dash closing panel.
Attachment 137995
2. Remove the instrument panel access panel
Attachment 137996
3. Remove the brake buffer plate and booster push rod clevis pin.
Attachment 137997
There is a more straight forward and easier access however and this is to remove the dash end assembly. Two clips at the bottom. Yank and it hinges up and out. Unplug the light switch.
Attachment 137998
4. Remove second battery if fitted.
5. I have a traxide dual battery set up so I had to remove all those bits.
I only needed to disconnect the two main power pole connectors and everything else stayed connected.Just pry away the double sided tape and lift the bits out of the way.
6. Remove auxiliary battery compartment side wall. 4 clips and some jiggling, especially if the traxide is mounted there.
Attachment 137999
7. Remove the auxiliary battery tray
Attachment 138000
8. I also at this time realised that I'd have to remove the other half of the battery tray. This is the half under the ABS modulator.
I unbolted the tray, then the ABS modulator, leaving the brake lines attached and lifted the ABS enough to slide/jiggle/remove the tray.
9. Unscrew and remove the two brake lines from both the master cylinder and modulator. Brake fluid is released so I stuffed absorbent materiel all around.
Tip. Three of these beasties are 11mm. Who in the Lords name uses 11mm! Had to dig way under my pile of 10mm and 12mm to find one.
10. Unbolt and remove the master cylinder. Can take a bit of jiggling due to the o'ring and time.
11. Unbolt and remove the vacuum chamber. Again, a bit of jiggling and maneuvering but fairly straight forward. Remember to disconnect the mod QD if you've had the recall mod.
12. Re-assemble in reverse.
As I replaced both the chamber and master cylinder I had to remove the fluid reservoir. It's a tightly fitted sausage of a thing but careful force and it pops off.
I then refilled with fluid at hand which was Dot 5.1 but if necessary I'll flush later.
I did a bleed and flush of old fluid, however I didn't/don't have the ABS bleed on my IID BT so didn't do that.
What I didn't mention is that I replaced the D3 vacuum chamber with a chamber from a SC RRS, supposedly more vacuum but outwardly it's the exact same dimensions.
Pretty happy with it all except skinned knuckles.
A combination of new M/C and new fatter vacuum and wow...it stops on a dime! Impressively so!
PS. I didn't replace the recall Mod but flushed what I could access. Similarly, I haven't time nor money to replace the actual cause, being the oil pump.
I will fit a catch can in the next few days to mitigate this.
Anyhoo, cheers and beers.
Ralph
Okies,
I'd like to remove all of the 'modded' vacuum lines and clean or replace.
Trouble, I'm buggered if I can get to or know where to reach to disconnect the lower connectors, which I hope are QD type connections.
Any advice?
Cheers
Ralph
Here is a link to another forum, showing the full procedure Including disconnecting the tubes from the valve on the vacuum pump
https://disco3.co.uk/gallery/albums/...all%20extn.pdf
Attachment 138067
This is a postmortem pic of my booster after I removed it because of oil contamination
