I should add I bought my 2008 RRV with 230,000km. No regrets. But I went in with my eyes open. Nothing unexpected has happened.
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I should add I bought my 2008 RRV with 230,000km. No regrets. But I went in with my eyes open. Nothing unexpected has happened.
HmmmQuote:
Originally Posted by chilli
The box is heavily dependent on what it’s been used for. Towing really wears them out and most that have been towing big caravans get tired.
Brake lines? More of a euro issue I believe as the salt corrodes the lines. Yes, expect air suspension. Park brake? Just keep it serviced and they last just fine. Alignment is a simple thing to have done after purchase.
Suspension aside, 245,000km and I had none of the other issues, and my boxes service was first done at 220,000km.
Everything you say are reasonable considerations, but don’t always apply.
So, I've narrowed it down to a few cars, getting one withing a 200km radius would be a plus for me.
- A 2010 D4 with 220,000km. City car, no extras, but boy are they nice! Silver, black leather (askinging $25000)
- A 2005 HSE D3 180,000km. Roof racks, towbar, Difflock and rear a/c (asking $21000)
- 2x other SE's with rear a/c, and around 200,000km, all seem to have good service history. One has had a few things replaced like air compressor, fuel pump, timing belt etc.
Wife likes the D4 and so do I, but an older one with lower k's is cheaper and optioned better and I can feel better about bush bashing in it.
Decisions decisions
Personally being a long term keeper of mechanical objects I like the simple choice as less to go wrong. Less turbos, no electric seats, no mirrors that fold in and out. Less gremlins for same enjoyment
Option 1. I assume it’s a 2.7. IMHO 220,000 km over 7 years (ie 30,000km /yr) is better than slightly less over more years. To me 30,000km a year indicates a good proportion has been HW driving, which is lower stress on brakes, suspension, motor, trans etc.
Spot on. Mine was 200,000km in 2016 and had done long miles cruising out of town to the country each day. Essentially it sat in 6th at 1800rpm most of its life. Even better he rarely towed and not heavy stuff so the box is still unstressed. I couldn’t be happier.Quote:
Originally Posted by rar110
How can I find out from the VIN if one I am looking at has a diff lock fitted from factory? Is there a Landrover number I can call?
Make yourself a free account on Topix and enter the VIN. It will tell you everything that is available to it on the car. I have the details of all four Land Rovers that are in my family. Less info available for D3's than D4's though.
It is easy to see by looking at the diff if you have access to the car. It has a bit like an electric motor attached to the top if it is an ediff.
Ediff makes no difference to the capability of the car so you don't need to get hung up on it. It will save some of the single wheel braking in extreme conditions but the traction control works fine without it. In fact, my 2014 L405 Range Rover performs better in crossed up axle conditions without a diff lock than my D4 does with a diff lock. They both get through but the L405 does it much easier. My son's V8 D3 with no diff lock does it a bit harder again but still gets through with no problems. Just a bit more slipping of wheels until the traction control sorts it out.
I need to be belted around the head with a paddle with this written on it. I need to stop thinking that a e-diff would be better than without, I guess it's not a diff-lock in the traditional sense. But this info has helped me broaden the number of cars I can now consider :)Quote:
Originally Posted by BobD
If comparing two of the same model, the one with a e-diff will get through a difficult spot easier. As Bob illustrates, newer models got more advanced traction control which made them more capable. Another reason to buy new as possible.