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I'm about to get my MY16 D4 done (EGR blanked) and spoke to Mark at Auto Code in Perth - apparently he's the whizz at this. It's $605 to do the job, including all hardware and software updates, and he needs the car for a day.
While the ECU is out on the bench, he can also do a remap to lift power and torque, for an extra $1100.
Have no idea whether these prices are ballpark or not, but seems reasonable to me.
Yesterday I fitted the blanking kit to my D3 (2007) - I've already had the remap done (about two weeks ago) and it runs veeeery nicely... couldn't be happier with the change !!!!
I have taken some pics of the EGR inlets...yuckkkkkk I'll post them up when I return from holidays.... off for a few weeks relaxation on Maui. [smilebigeye]
cheers
Checked the BAS site and an egr delete file is 150GBP and uploaded via a GAP tool, and an extra 350GBP gets 90nm and 25kw.
Beware of possible warranty considerations before you do this. May cause you grief if something goes wrong.Quote:
Originally Posted by GregMilner
Martin
I had a stage one re-map & EGR delete done recently & am VERY impressed. The car is a LOT nicer to drive. Shifts better (smoother) & performs better. Fuel economy is also better.
Thanks Martin, yes that's definitely on my mind. Although it doesn't seem to concern the many owners who have had it done and swear by it. The legal and warranty issues do concern me though.Quote:
Originally Posted by letherm
Was it done in Melbourne ? If so, Who did it for you?Quote:
Originally Posted by gofish
Work was done at Rova Range in Bentleigh East.Quote:
Originally Posted by discomatt69
And mine was done at "Exceltune" in Duke Street Sunshine.Quote:
Originally Posted by gofish
Reviving this thread with a new idea for the brainstrust to comment.
My question is around deleting the EGR function with blanks combined with emulator or mapping (or keeping working EGRs plugged in) to keep the ECU happy is the normal process on later engines.
In this process the EGR cooler is blanked where it joins the EGR electric valve but is still filled with hot gas and coolant going through the internal cooler pipe circuit presenting a failure risk longer term in my opinion.
Wouldn’t the following be smarter;
1. Remove permanently EGR Cooler and blank exhaust manifold outlet.
2. Sort and plug coolant pipe work to cooler.
3. Leave working EGR in place plugged in.
4. Apply needed blanking plates to EGR unit and manifold pipe work.
Why wouldn’t this work? You’ve kept the ECU stock and removed a source of failure in the Cooler.
I’ve read in UK that people have removed the coolers and associated pipe work. The EGR Coolers do aid in bringing the coolant up to operating temp quickly.
My EGRs have no problem so far but I don’t think they go forever.